Author Archive: Melissa Kaplan

How’s That Bucket List Coming? An Update on My Travels

A while back, I wrote a post about my (greatly abbreviated) top ten country bucket list.  It was intended to be an exploration of my travel dreams, as well as a way to prioritize the places I most want to see (since I always have more travel dreams than time or money, making a list of my top travel goals makes sense, right?  I’m nothing if not organized.  Seriously, to an insane degree.  It’s rather scary.)

Recently I started thinking about this list and thought it would be fun to check back and see how I’m doing with my list of must-sees: how many have I made a reality, how many are trips-in-progress, and how many remain tantalizing future travel goals?  I love accountability, almost as much as I love to cross things off of lists, so here goes:

Melissa’s (Updated) Bucket List

 

View of a mist-covered mountain outside Nairobi

 

10) East Africa

Done and done (and soon to be done again!) Last year I visited Kenya and Uganda for a work trip, and I’ll be going back soon to explore more of Kenya (details pending).  I can’t wait to revisit this beautiful corner of the world and dig a bit deeper into what it has to offer.

9)  Brazil

Still haven’t been, but it remains high on my list, especially after friends have raved about it so much lately.  I would love to make this a winter (aka their summer) trip one of these years—maybe in combination with Chile, another place in South America I’m longing to see….

8)  Costa Rica

I seriously thought about taking a trip there this spring, but it didn’t quite pan out.  I have looked into doing a yoga retreat in Costa Rica and really want to make that happen one day (two bucket list goals achieved on one trip; I love it!)

7) India

I was literally just talking yesterday with a friend who had spent lots of time in India and loved it.  It remains high on my list, but I want to visit when I can do an extended tour through the country (both north and south, hopefully) and really get to delve into its magic.  This trip may not happen in the foreseeable future, but it will happen!

6) New Zealand

No details yet, but I’m making a determined effort to visit this magical land within the next year (gauntlet thrown down, now I must commit!)  Seriously, few places rank higher on my must-see-asap list than NZ, and I’m very hopeful a 2018 trip is in the cards.  Stay tuned!

5) Australia

Well, of course you can’t mention New Zealand without bringing up Australia, right?  Because they are SO close and both look SO AMAZING, I would really love to do a trip that combines both—if I manage to carve out a month or so in my schedule that would be possible, but otherwise, I’m afraid Oz may have to wait in line behind New Zealand (I guess I should officially bump it down behind NZ on my bucket list, right?)  But I’m determined to make it to Australia in the not-too-distant future as well.

4) Vietnam

SO. CLOSE. A few months ago I was booked to go back to Cambodia for a work trip, and I had added on a few vacation days in Hanoi to check out the city and visit Ha Long Bay. Unfortunately, the plug was pulled on my work trip, so Vietnam was postponed as well…for now. I still hope to make it back to Southeast Asia later this year or early next, though it’s not totally within control due to the work factors. But one thing is certain: when I return to Asia, I will get to Vietnam at last.

View of Soca river in Slovenia.

 

3) Slovenia

Check another one off the list—I finally made my decade-long travel dream come true and visited Slovenia last summer, and ever since I’ve been recommending that everyone drop whatever they’re doing and head over there.  What a beautiful and fascinating country!

2) Bali

Oh, Bali…how you tempt and vex me.  I was determined to finally make this dream trip a reality for my milestone birthday last December.  But, with all the traveling I’d done that year, and the relatively limited vacation time I had to work with, I decided it made more sense to postpone until I had a chance to do it properly, ie spend a few weeks in Indonesia and really get the opportunity to soak up Bali.   After all, a 20-hour plane ride is nothing to scoff at, and if you’re going all that way you need to make your time there worthwhile, right?  I don’t want to give Bali short shrift when I feel it deserves so much more, so I’m holding off until I can do it right (what a dangerous notion that is, really….)  Anyway, I will make Bali happen.  For sure.  One of these days.  Sigh….

`1) Russia/China/Mongolia and the Trans-Siberian Express

Big news here: I’M FINALLY GOING TO RUSSIA!!!

No, not the Trans-Siberian Express (that will happen eventually though!) but St. Petersburg.  My friend and I have booked a cruise through Scandinavia (covering Berlin, Tallin, Stockholm, Helsinki and Copenhagen), with a full two-day stop in St.  Petersburg.  So after two decades of dreaming about it, I’m finally going to Russia in August—just four months away!! Cue massive excitement, guidebook purchases, and earnest efforts to finally make it through Crime and Punishment this time….

 

So, that’s the status of my bucket list. Two countries checked off, three more in progress, and five dreams waiting to be fulfilled in the future….I guess that’s not terrible, right?  Slow and steady wins the race, and even if getting to every corner of the world my heart desires may take longer than I’d like, I have no doubt that in the end, it will be well worth it.

 

Do you have a bucket list? How are you doing at fulfilling your travel dreams?

Thoughts on People Who Don’t Want to Travel

In the almost two years I’ve been blogging (and, more to the point, reading travel blogs pretty voraciously), I’ve noticed that a lot of themes seem to come and go in the travel blogging community.  There’s almost a pattern of push-pull, in which an idea is trumpeted by many bloggers to the point where it becomes cliché, only for another blogger (or two, or three, and then more) to push back and say “well, actually, I don’t really agree with that…”  And the cycle goes round and round.

View of a mist-covered mountain outside Nairobi

 

For instance, when I first discovered that travel blogs were a thing, there were a TON of inspirational blog posts along the lines of “quit your job to travel and start living life to the fullest!”  Then, a year or so later, I noticed a pattern in the opposite direction: more and more bloggers of the non-digital-nomad variety writing pieces pushing back against the idea that the only way to live your best life was on a yoga retreat in Southeast Asia while drinking something out of a pineapple.  A number of blogs popped up stating that, in fact, you could have a normal life and travel too.  (For the record, I agree with this, though I certainly also see the appeal of dropping everything to move to Thailand and do yoga on a beach.  In fact, my whole life is kind of a balancing act between wanderlust and seeking stability as twin goals, so I understand both sides of this debate).

Lately, I’ve noticed another emerging trend among travel blogs.  The new idea being espoused in many corners is that, if people don’t want to travel, that’s perfectly okay and we shouldn’t make them feel bad about it, because after all, travel isn’t the be-all and end-all of life and there are many other ways to live a fulfilled existence, even without possessing a passport.

And while I see the point being made here, I have to raise my hand in the back of the room and say…I don’t completely agree with this “no-travel-is-totally-okay” philosophy either.

View of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

 

Look, I’m all for live-and-let-live, for not judging others by the criteria of my own desires and goals.  I get that we’re all different and want different things out of life.  I know that there are plenty of people out there whose goals don’t include travel at all, and I know I should say that’s just fine.

But here’s the thing:  if you’ve never traveled, how do you know you don’t want to do it?   How can you definitively close yourself off to something you’ve never actually experienced?

Now, I understand that we humans don’t have to experience everything possible in order to know if we do or don’t want it as part of our lives.  For instance, I have friends who absolutely know, without a doubt, that they don’t want to have kids—and they don’t need to go out and give birth to one and try out raising it for a few months to confirm that to themselves.  They just know in their bones that parenthood isn’t the right choice for them, even without having tried it.  Fair enough.

But I do think travel is different.  For one thing, it doesn’t involve nearly the level of commitment that raising a child, buying a house, or changing careers does.  If you have sufficient funds and a week or two of vacation days per year, you can travel somewhere.  Maybe not a six-month backpacking trip through Europe, but you can hop on a plane, or a train, or a bus, and go somewhere new.  And I’d argue  you have little to lose by doing so, and a lot to gain.

Table Mountain, Cape Town, South Africa

 

Travel is a funny thing. I think, often, you do need to experience it to know for sure whether you want it in your life or not.   I mean, I’ve been consumed by wanderlust since I was a child staring at maps of the world and tagging along with my dad to the travel agent to collect brochures to plan all the trips I was going to take “someday.”  But I’ve known other people who never gave much thought to travel, but then decided to give it a chance and discovered they loved it.  And considering our society often doesn’t put much of a premium on travel (we’re just supposed to work, work, work and pride ourselves on our unused vacation days, apparently), I think it often helps to think outside our boxes a bit and give travel an opportunity to take hold of us and our imaginations.

I wrote last year about the importance of getting out of your comfort zone to see the world, and I still believe very strongly in the value of doing so.  To people who claim they don’t have any desire to travel, I have to wonder: leaving travel aside, how often do you get outside of your own comfortable space of the familiar?  Do you try new restaurants, read new books, talk with people who hold different viewpoints than you do?  If so, great; and travel will likely only enhance these experiences.  If not, well…maybe your lack of interest in travel is symptomatic of a lack of interest in trying new things in general.  And while I know it’s not my business to judge anyone’s life choices, I have to believe that ultimately, stepping outside the box we’re accustomed to—through travel, or any other means—can only benefit us.

The Louvre in Paris

 

So, I challenge everyone out there who has never really thought they wanted to travel: give it a shot.  Just try it out.  Whether it’s a weekend away a few towns over or a trip to China, use travel as a means to explore the world around you and see if it’s something that brings you joy, and maybe expands your worldview and appreciation for this glorious planet we’re fortunate enough to call home.  You may be pleasantly surprised by how rewarding you find exploring the world in this way.  And if not—well, at least you tried.  You got out there and took a chance and hopefully learned something about yourself, and that’s a great thing.

There’s no shame in not being a wanderlust-filled globetrotter. Not everyone will want or need a passport filled with stamps from around the world.  But I truly think that, all other things being equal, travel is one of those things we owe it to ourselves to try out, at least once in our lives…just to see where the road may take us.

 

What are your thoughts on this? Is travel something everyone should try if they can, or is it fine to eschew it if you don’t think it’s for you?

Where I’m Going in 2017 (And Why We Should All Go Somewhere New This Year)

Plitvice waterfalls, Croatia

 

A few weeks ago, a friend posted on Facebook that she had just applied for her first passport.  I smiled; it was the first piece of good news I’d read on social media in what seemed like ages.  It’s not just the prospect of the new journeys and discoveries that lie ahead of her that excites me.  It’s the fact that she, along with many other people, is making the decision to explore the world beyond America’s borders for the first time.  And that type of exploration has never been more important.

Our world today is in the midst of a rising tide of xenophobia, bigotry, and sadly, outright hate towards those who are different from us.  If we want to avoid getting swept away by this tide, we need to recognize that the source of much of these feelings is actually fear.  It’s easy to be afraid of the unknown.  For many people who’ve never traveled outside of their country, who’ve never met anyone from another part of the world, who’ve never spent time in a foreign land to learn about a new place, its culture and its history, it can seem that the world is a terrifying place filled with bad people who are all out to get us.

But that’s simply not true.  I’ve visited 35 countries and five continents so far (often solo), and I’ve had amazing experiences and met wonderful people in every single one.  And I can honestly say in all my wanderings, I’ve never had a moment when I’ve felt truly afraid.

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

 

Bigotry thrives on ignorance.  Hatred and xenophobia feed off of fear.  The way to combat these demons is to throw ourselves out into the world and discover all that is has to offer, and connect with new people we never would meet otherwise whose perspective, values, and life experiences may differ from ours, but who are ultimately like us–just people doing the best they can to live a good life for themselves and their families.

The two most life-changing trips I’ve ever taken both happened last year, in Cambodia and Uganda.  In Cambodia, I met people who had suffered enormously from a war my history books had barely even mentioned (and believe me, I’ve read a lot of history).  In Uganda, I visited a center where refugees fleeing violence and local people confronting poverty unimaginable to most Americans were receiving food, medical treatment, and above all, hope.  It’s hard to see things like this and not look at the world differently afterward.  And I believe that, while travel has enormous value simply as a fun adventure and break from day-to-day life, the most rewarding trips are the ones that immerse you, however briefly, in a totally different environment, like the ones I got a chance to see in Cambodia and Uganda.  An experience like this is the best antidote I know to hatred, intolerance and fear.

So, let 2017 be your year to travel and explore the world.  If you’ve been thinking about getting a passport, or booking a trip somewhere new, or venturing outside your comfort zone in general, now is the perfect time.  May 2017 be your Year of Travel!

Of course, it’s always my Year of Travel around here, and so I wanted to share my trip plans for the next few months…they’re still evolving, but I’ve got some great stuff lined up and I’m so excited to hit the road again.  Bring it!

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

 

Melissa’s 2017 Travel Plans (So Far)

  • Cambodia and Vietnam: I visited Cambodia last year on a work trip and loved it. This year, work is sending me back again, and I’m taking advantage of the opportunity to add on a few days in Vietnam.  I’m hoping to spend a weekend in Hanoi and do a cruise on Ha Long Bay; just enough time to get a taste of this fascinating country.  I should be there in late March through early April, and I can’t wait!
  • East Africa: Another work-related trip to Kenya and Uganda, which I also visited last year. I won’t have much time to do non-work stuff on this trip, but I do hope to get in another breathtaking sunrise walk on the plains to spot some giraffes and other magnificent wildlife, at the very least.
  • Scandinavia and Russia: I’ve been dying to go to Russia for two decades now, and I’m determined that this is the year it will happen. I’m not sure exactly how this trip will play out though. I’m considering basing myself in Helsinki (which seems to be every travel blogger’s favorite Nordic city lately), exploring a bit of the Finnish countryside, day-tripping to Tallin in Estonia, and then finishing up with a few days in St. Petersburg. Another option is to take a Scandinavia/Russia/Baltics cruise, hitting all of these same cities and also Berlin, Stockholm, and Copenhagen (the only one I’ve been to before).  I’m torn between my desire to spend more time on the ground and get to know Finland better and my love of cruises (don’t judge) plus the opportunity to see more places, with less logistical hassle, albeit at a more hurried pace.  Not a bad dilemma to have though, right?  This will be my big vacation trip of the year, so I want to do it right…details to come as I sort it all out.
  • Paris: Nothing definite yet but there’s a decent chance I may have a work meeting in Paris again this year, and if so, this time I’m definitely tacking on at least one vacation day.  I can never get enough of Paris (and definitely not of Angelina’s hot chocolate!)
  • New Orleans: My best friend and I traveled to Portland, Oregon together last fall, and we’ve tossed around the idea of doing another fall trip to New Orleans (she’s been before, I haven’t). It’s long been near the top of my list of American cities to visit, and would fulfill one of my travel resolutions to keep exploring my own country, so I hope we can make it happen!

Do you have any exciting travel plans for the new year?  Already taken an amazing trip?  Share!

Travel Resolutions for 2017

Happy new year!  2017 is upon us, and while I may have mixed feelings about that, there’s no denying that the arrival of a new calendar year is a great opportunity to take stock and set resolutions and intentions for ourselves.  I’ve already written down my official new years’ resolutions in my notebook, as I always do on January 1.  Hopefully I’ll be as successful with them this year as last year (I kept about six out of nine, not bad…though maybe it means I need to be more ambitious in my goal-setting?)  Anyway….on to travel!

  Antigua, Guatemala

 

Travel is always my number one resolution and the first goal I write down in my notebook on new year’s day. It’s my favorite resolution as it’s easy to keep: do more of my favorite thing in the world and continue exploring this magical planet?  Yes, I can probably squeeze that in along with “eat healthier” and “save more money.”

I already have a pretty good handle on where I plan to travel this year—I’ll save that for a future post.  Today I want to share some of the broader travel-related resolutions I plan to make for the year ahead.  So far, here’s what I’ve settled on:

Melissa’s Travel Resolutions for 2017

  • Seize Opportunities. I like to think that I always seize any travel opportunity that presents itself with both hands, but this year I want to get better about really taking advantage of all the opportunities presented to me and get creative with them where I can.  For instance, I have at least two potential overseas work trips coming up where I could plausibly add on a few vacation days to spend more time in places I love, or even pop into an entirely new country for the first time as I’ll be so close.  Challenge accepted!

 

  • Make My Dream Trip Happen. For years (actually, decades) I’ve been wanting to go to Russia.  I studied Russian history and politics as part of my college curriculum and got my graduate degree in international relations with a focus on Russia and Eastern Europe—yet somehow, I’ve still never been to Russia.  How ridiculous is that?  This year, I’m determined to make it over there as part of a longer trip to the Baltic/Scandinavian region, which I’m also dying to visit.  I hereby declare 2017 the year of making my Russia dream come true!

 

  • Be More Adventurous. Of course, one can argue that travel is an adventure in itself, but more and more I’ve come to realize that visiting new places also presents unique opportunities to try new things and get out of your comfort zone.  I want to do a yoga retreat by the beach, take cooking and language classes in new countries, zipline in Costa Rica, climb the Sydney Harbor Bridge in Australia, go skydiving in Queenstown, New Zealand…and I’m sure I can think of more to add to the list.  It may not all happen this year, but I at least want to make a start on becoming a more adventurous traveler in 2017.

 

  • Get Better at Collecting Points and Miles. I suck at travel hacking.  Embarrassing, but true.  For one who travels relatively often, I don’t really make much of an effort to collect or redeem points and miles for free flights, upgrades, etc.  I’m vowing to improve on this in 2017, especially as one of my 2018 trips is likely to involve a long flight.  Which leads me to….

 

  • Save for a Big Trip and Begin Planning. I have a big, ambitious trip to a completely new-to-me part of the world that I’ve been thinking about for a while—one that will require more than my usual week or two. I’m not exactly sure when or how this trip will unfold (and it probably won’t be until at least 2018) but I want to start setting aside dedicated savings to fund this big adventure this year, as well as begin delving into the planning process.  More details hopefully coming soon….

 

  • Finish My Book. And finally—one of the things I’m most proud of in 2016 is that I began writing a book on travel.  It’s still a work in progress, but I’ve been writing away and am pretty pleased with it so far.  In 2017, I want to finish the writing process and begin looking into publishing to bring my new creation into the world.  Wish me luck!

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

What are your travel goals or resolutions for 2017?  Did you keep the ones you made last year?

My Best Travel Moments of 2016

It’s that time of year again!  Time for holiday celebrations, festive lights, lots and lots of hot chocolate (not that I ever need an excuse, really), and of course, end-of-the-year roundup blog posts.

Honestly, when I look back on my travels over the past year, I’m still pretty astounded I got to see and do so much. I had travel goals and dreams at the beginning of the year, but what I actually was able to see and do and experience blew them out of the water.  This was an incredible year for me, and I’m so grateful for every single new place I visited, every new adventure I embarked on, and above all, the people I met around the globe who reaffirmed my hope that, fundamentally, the world is full of good and decent men and women who just want to live the best lives that they can.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

 

This was the year I visited Cambodia for the first time, and was blown away by this majestic country.  It’s the year I made it to East Africa, experiencing a taste of safari in Kenya and learning about the history and contemporary life of Uganda.  It’s the year that finally saw me accomplish my decade-long goal of visiting Slovenia and northern Croatia for the very first time.  I traveled to Portland with my best friend and had a great time in this fun, funky, donut-and-ice cream-laden city.  I visited my family in England and got reacquainted with one of my all-time favorite cities, London.  And oh yes, I made it back to Paris and it was every bit as delightful as I remembered.

What an amazing year.  I’m so thankful I got to experience every moment of it.

View of Soca river…can you believe that water color is real?!

 

As December draws to a close, I thought I’d do a quick roundup of some of my favorite moments/experiences over the past twelve months.  Read on for my favorites around the globe in 2016:

  • Best Massage: Bliss Spa, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. An hour and a half of heavenly pampering for only $30.  Can’t wait to go back!
  • Best Hot Chocolate: Les Deux Magots, Paris. I sneaked in for an hour with a French newspaper and a chocolate chaud after a long day of work meetings, and it remains one of my favorite memories of Paris.
  • Best Sunrise: Across the magical vista of my lodge near Nairobi, Kenya. Watching the sun rise over East Africa at 6 am—and thinking how far I’d come to be able to experience that moment—made the early morning wake-up call totally worthwhile.
  • Best Meal: Paris again—Le Relais D’Entrecote. I’d remembered this fantastique steak-and-frites legend from an earlier visit but couldn’t find it on a map or in my guidebook…then I stumbled across it by pure chance while wandering around the neighborhood.  Fate!  And it was every bit as delicious as I remembered.  That steak is reason enough to visit Paris.
  • Best Body of Water: As beautiful as the Plitvice Lakes in Croatia are, I have to give the edge to the Soca River in Slovenia. This ribbon of turquoise snaking through the beautiful Slovenian countryside is a marvel.  I remember just sitting and staring at it during a break in my busy day-trip from Lake Bled, wishing I could gaze at it forever and never leave.
  • Best Museum: Also in Slovenia—the Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia in Ljubljana is a bit out of the way from the city center, but it’s very impressive and does a great job of telling the powerful, inspiring story of the country’s journey from Yugoslavia to independence to European Union membership over the past 25 years. It’s a must-see if you’re going to be in the capital.
  • Best Bookstore: This is an easy one (even though I got to revisit some of my favorites in London this year). I fell in love with the legendary Powell Books in Portland, Oregon when I visited this fall.  SO many titles I wanted to take home, but I limited myself to three, and I still have two of them sitting on my nightstand that I can’t wait to crack open.  This place is huge, diverse, and heaven for book lovers!
  • Best New City: While I enjoyed Phnom Penh a lot, and found Zagreb really charming, my hands-down favorite new city from the past year is Ljubljana. The capital of Slovenia is a gorgeous mélange of pastels set on a river and filled with beautiful architecture, excellent restaurants, and too many charming cafes to explore during my all-too-brief time there.  I need to go back and revisit this delightful city soon—it made me so happy and I honestly didn’t want to leave!
  • Best New Country: Cambodia wasn’t even on my radar a year ago except in the vaguest way, but when a work trip sent me there for two weeks, I was thrilled to get a chance to check it out. It honestly was one of the most significant trips I’ve ever taken in my life.  Not only is it an incredibly beautiful country with charming cities and impressive ruins to explore (hello, Angkor Wat!), it was filled with some of the kindest, most interesting people I’ve ever met, and I was inspired and humbled by how the country has worked to move forward after the horrors of its not-too-distant past.  Cambodia is vibrant, fascinating, easy to explore even solo, and very affordable.  It’s now one of my top country recommendations for all travelers.  Cambodia, I’m so glad I got to know you a bit in 2016, and I hope to see you again soon.

What were your favorite 2016 travel experiences?  What are your plans for 2017?

Travel: A Light in the Darkness

“That is what roses are like; this is how they smell.  We must remember that, down in the darkness.”

–Rebecca West, Black Lamb and Grey Falcon, 1941

Seattle, Washington

Seattle, Washington

 

I blog as a hobby—one of several.  In my professional life, I work on international development issues at a nonprofit organization, trying to help people around the world who live in poverty that most of us cannot even imagine gain access to food, clean water, and better lives.  In addition to these things, I’m also a history buff, a political junkie, and someone who believes deeply in the interconnectedness of the planet and everyone who lives here.  I’m a proud internationalist, in a world that seems more and more to be slipping away from this ideal.

The past few weeks, needless to say, have been difficult ones for me to process.  In the aftermath of the recent election, everywhere I look I seem to see rising tides of intolerance, ignorance, and even hatred.  I have a hard time reconciling these disturbing trends with my vision of the America I know, and even more, with the need for our world to move toward greater inclusion, understanding, and love.

A few nights ago, I was speaking with my (incredibly patient) father on the phone, pouring out my anguish and uncertainty about how to move forward.  He said something that resonated with me; essentially, even amidst the craziness of a world I feel I don’t understand, I not only have the right to be happy, but I have an obligation.

Croatia

That, to me, is a fascinating concept.  Happiness as an obligation: to oneself, to the people in your life, maybe even to the world—because doesn’t the world need happy, hopeful people now more than ever?

However, as compelling an idea as it is, it’s been very hard for me to find much to be happy about in recent days.  So I started thinking—what can I find to make me happy even in the worst of circumstances?  What can be, essentially, my light in the darkness?

And then the answer came to me: travel.  Of course.

Travel makes me happy.  Travel has exposed me to so many beautiful, even magical places over the years, introduced me to wonderful people I never would have met otherwise, offered me new experiences I could never have dreamed of undertaking had I stayed at home (scaling the side of a mountain without a harness in Slovenia, anyone?  Yeah, I actually did that, and I survived).

And most of all, travel has expanded my understanding of the world we all live in by letting me partake, even briefly, in cultures and ideas and experiences vastly different from the ones I grew up considering to be the norm.  In short, travel—and the benefits it can  bring—represents not only my best hope to find happiness in difficult times, but also one of the best hopes for the people in the world to learn about one another, understand one another a bit better, and start approaching the world outside our bubbles with kindness and compassion rather than fear.

And so, I have decided: for the next few years, travel will be my light in whatever darkness may come.

I will continue traveling.

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

 

I will visit new places I’ve longed to see: the Hermitage in St. Petersburg; the rain forests of Costa Rica; the beaches and rice paddies of Bali.

I will finally make my big trip to Australia and New Zealand happen, and officially have stepped foot on every continent (well, except for Antarctica, but I’m okay with bypassing that).

I will gaze upon magnificent art, sample scrumptious foods, climb mountains, and dive in oceans.

I will explore the world outside America’s borders as fully as possible, while also being careful not to fall into the trap of neglecting my own country, as there is much to learn and experience here as well.

I will do my very best, wherever I go, to be a good ambassador of my country, and learn all I can from people whose lives and perspectives and experiences are different from mine, even when it’s hard.

I will keep traveling.  I will keep exploring.  I will keep learning.  And I will keep being happy…because I’m fortunate enough to be able to do something I love that brings me happiness even in the most trying times.

Travel will be my light in the darkness, whenever darkness may fall.  I hope that all of you find a similar light to keep you going when times are rough…and simply to bring you the happiness of a life spent living out your dreams, whatever they may be.

 

Zagreb and Plitvice: Two Different Sides of Croatia

The day before I was to leave Slovenia for Croatia, I was facing a dilemma.  Thanks to scheduling issues, I’d had to book a bus that arrived in Zagreb in the late evening rather than mid-morning, meaning I’d only have a single full day in Croatia.  This was obviously not optimal, as there is so much to see even in the northern region of the country where I’d be based during my visit.  I reached out to the Facebook universe for help with this question:  “If I only have one day in Croatia, should I spend it at the Plitvice Lakes, or just stay put and explore Zagreb?”

The answer from my Croatia-savvy friends was unanimous: Plitvice.

And honestly, I can see why. Plitvice is beautiful, and who doesn’t love a good waterfall, much less a sprawling park filled with them?

Yet, I have to say that I feel my friends did Zagreb a bit of a disservice.  It’s not Budapest or Prague, but I really, really liked it.

Zagreb.

  Zagreb.

 

The Charms of Zagreb

I didn’t have much time to explore Zagreb—just a quick morning and late afternoon/evening following my trip to the Plitvice Lakes—so I’m hardly an expert after just walking around it for a few hours.  Maybe I also benefited from the freedom of low expectations (one friend had told me Zagreb was her least favorite city in the Balkans).  I wasn’t looking for much there.  I just figured I’d see it, check the box and move on.  But I was also curious as to whether Croatia’s capital had more to offer than I’d been led to believe.

And sure enough, it does.

Zagreb struck me as a quintessential Central European city, which is one of my favorite types of places in the world.  As I’ve written before, I have a long-term love affair with Eastern Europe, and every time I step back into that part of the world, I remember what makes it so special.

Zagreb's market.

Zagreb’s market.

 

Zagreb has all the things that Central Europe is famous for: old-world-style architecture, a beautiful town square, trams rolling through the streets, pastels popping everywhere, a fantastic market bulging with fresh fruits and vegetables, and of course, a surfeit of cafes.   Pretty much all the things I love most about the region, in one small, compact, very walkable city which still retained a bit of a small-town feel.

(Sidenote: I also loved how relatively inexpensive Zagreb is.  My luxurious (for me, anyway!) hotel right on the city’s main square cost only 85 euros per night; I was able to enjoy a fancy steak dinner for around 25 euros, and gelato cost about a dollar.  So much good for so little cash!)

 

The Majesty (and Downside) of Plitvice

Of course, as much as I would have loved more time to enjoy Zagreb, I knew my trip to this part of Croatia wouldn’t be complete without seeing the majestic Plitvice Lakes, a sprawling national park which features both crashing waterfalls and glorious turquoise colored lakes as far as the eye can see.  And Plitvice didn’t disappoint.

Except that it did, a little bit.

Don’t get me wrong, Plitvice Lakes and its waterfalls are BEAUTIFUL, and everyone who can should definitely see them.  I can’t find anything to complain about in these views:

croatia-plitvice-one  croatia-plitvice-two

Except that it was crowded and full of tourists snapping selfies (hello, Thailand flashbacks); it was a bit confusing to navigate despite the trails being marked (I somehow wandered onto the path for a longer walk when I only had time for a shorter one, meaning I had to retrace my steps and double back to my starting point); and frankly, I just didn’t plan my time there very well. I was trying to do too much: take a bus two and a half hours down from Zagreb, see the park in 2-3 hours, then take the bus back up to Zagreb and still have an afternoon and evening free to wander the city.  In retrospect, I should have probably planned to stay overnight at Plitvice to be able to devote an entire day to it without racing through it.  I’m still very glad I saw what I did, but being less rushed would have likely led to a less stressful and more fun experience there.

 

The Bottom Line

Both Zagreb and Plitvice are well worth seeing when you’re visiting Croatia.  Just make sure you budget enough time for each and don’t try to do too much in a single day.  I’d say give Zagreb at least one full day (two if you can) and try to stay overnight at Plitvice to have a full day to explore the park.  I really hope that someday I’ll be able to go back and do the same.

Croatia, you haven’t seen the last of me!

I’m Going to Portland!

Exciting announcement:  after a summer that saw me zooming back and forth between Cambodia, East Africa, Paris, London, and Central Europe (thank you, work travel!) I have a new adventure on the horizon, this time a little closer to home.

I’m going to Portland!

Portland, Oregon…home of cafes, hipsters, outdoor markets, a fantastic food scene, surrounded by stunning natural beauty (with mountains to climb and burn off all of that food!), and, by reputation, just an all-around fantastic city to hang out in and soak up the atmosphere and enjoy life.  That’s pretty much the plan!

Mt. Hood, Portland (photo by Jessica Somers)

Mt. Hood, Portland (photo by Jessica Somers)

 

I’ll be taking this trip with my best friend Jessica, who is both a supremely talented professional photographer (see her photos in this post) and familiar with Portland already as she’s been there before and loves it.  I’m very excited to explore the city with her, and there are a few stops we’ll be hitting for sure in our whirlwind weekend visit:

  • Salt ‘n Straw—Honestly, this is approximately 25% of the reason I want to go to Portland (maybe more)…the ice cream at Salt ‘n Straw is reputed to be among the best on the planet. Will it live up to expectations?  I suspect a lot of research is in order (don’t worry, I’m up to the task and won’t let you down!)
  • Voodoo Donuts/Powell’s City of Books—It wouldn’t be a Portland trip without checking out the legendary Powell’s City of Books, an apparent mecca for bibliophiles. I may not conquer it all, but I’ll do my best, and hopefully come away with some new reads to enjoy while eating a multitude of donuts at Voodoo Donuts (power snacks for sightseeing!)
  • Coquine—I’ve heard about this new-ish Portland restaurant for what seems like ages and am excited to check it out. My awesome BFF got us reservations for dinner, so we can see what the fuss at this Portland hotspot is all about!
  • Nature—I also want to balance all the cafes and restaurants with some wilderness and foliage. We’re hopefully going to visit the International Rose Test Gardens, as well as do a little hiking in the area surrounding the city.
Voodoo Donuts, Portland (photo by Jessica Somers)

Voodoo Donuts, Portland (photo by Jessica Somers)

 

Other than that, not too many concrete plans except to eat, drink, and celebrate decades of friendship with a little cross-country weekend adventure.  What could be better than that?

Bring it, Portland!  (Especially the ice cream and donuts…)

 

Have you been to Portland?  What are your favorite spots in the city and around?  Any suggestions for our trip?

Drop Whatever You’re Doing and Go to Slovenia

I’m proud to say that this summer, I finally made a ten-year travel dream come true: I visited Slovenia for the first time!

I know that may sound like a rather odd travel dream.  Most people, if they visit Slovenia at all, tend to tack it onto a larger Europe trip…either when they visit Italy, Croatia, or do a larger sweep through Central Europe and/or the Balkans.  I don’t know too many people other than myself who were fascinated enough by Slovenia to build a trip around it.

But let me tell you…it is SO worth it.

slovenia-julian-alps

Slovenia was the 35th country I’ve visited so far (yay, mini travel milestone!) and I can honestly say it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.  There is so much natural and man-made beauty there, it’s hard to see how one relatively small country can contain it all!

I began my trip in the capital of Ljubljana, and I really wish I’d budgeted more time there (I only had one full day!).  It’s one of the prettiest cities I’ve ever seen!  Architecturally stunning buildings in gorgeous pastels populate the streets, the riverside cafes are inviting at any time of day, and it’s a perfect place to just wander the cobblestoned alleys and get lost for a while.  On the touristy side, I also visited the castle (and walked all the way up—no furnuncular for me!); took a river cruise in the evening, which I highly recommend as a different way to see the city while getting out on the water; and spent an hour in the excellent Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia–a must to understand more about the recent history of this fascinating country, from its brief 1991 war for independence to its triumphant ascension into the European Union and NATO (yes, I wrote my dissertation on the role of Central European countries in the EU, so I may be a bit of a nerd on this subject, but really, it’s a great museum I think everyone should visit even if it’s a bit out of the way from the city center).

Ljubljana, in all its pastel glory.

Ljubljana, in all its pastel glory.

 

After Ljubljana, it was on to Lake Bled.  I spent about four days here, soaking up the stunning natural beauty of my surroundings, highlighted by my trip by pletna (small boat) to the island in the center of the lake, which has been made famous in countless photos by the church in the middle of it—it’s just as charming as you would imagine it to be!  Other than that, there’s not really too much to do in Lake Bled aside from water sports and hanging out in cafes and restaurants—another reason I wish I’d spent more time in Ljubljana to explore there—but it’s a beautiful place and should definitely be visited on any trip to Slovenia.

Lake Bled island with church in the center.

Lake Bled island with church in the center.

 

Probably my favorite part of the trip was when I booked a day tour to see some of Slovenia’s greatest natural attractions—Mt. Triglav, its highest peak; the Soca river (including whitewater rafting—a first for me and actually a lot of fun!) and a quick, although rain-soaked glimpse of Lake Bohinj (nice, but can’t compete with Lake Bled, in my opinion).  It was a great way to see a lot of the northern part of this small country in a short span of time, and I would recommend doing this type of tour to anyone!

View of Soca river...can you believe that water color is real?!

View of Soca river…can you believe that water color is real?!

 

When posting to my Instagram account, I captioned a photo of the Soca River with these words, “Drop whatever you’re doing and go to Slovenia.”  And so, the title of this blog post…because it really is true.  This country is beautiful, friendly, easy to navigate, has a fascinating history, and should be high on anyone’s European bucket list.  If you’re going to be anywhere nearby, don’t miss the chance to pop into Slovenia for at least a few days….or, you could be like me and build an entire trip around it.  I promise it will be well worth it!

Have you been to Slovenia?  Would you be interested in going?  Which photo is your favorite?

August Update: Checking Things Off My DC Bucket List

When August arrived a few weeks ago, I was happily anticipating a little rest and relaxation.  August was supposed to be my quiet time after nearly three straight months of rapid-fire, mostly work-related travel through Asia, Africa, Europe, Florida, and Connecticut: time to soak up DC’s summer charms before leaving for my vacation to London, Slovenia and Croatia.

dc capitol summer

Except, on a whim, I searched online for apartments one morning to see what was available in my neighborhood, and ended up moving into a newer, bigger space upstairs in my building (yay!).  So moving, buying new furniture, and shopping for home goods dominated the first few weeks of the month.  Not to mention I took a lightning-quick day trip up to New York City to meet up with college friends I hadn’t seen in years.  We had a wonderful time catching up and reminiscing, and I got to eat what is without a doubt the most impressive milkshake/sundae I’ve ever had in my life at Black Tap.  I already can’t wait to go back next time I’m in NYC for work—and I’ll save room for one of their legendary burgers too!

nyc black tap sundae

So, August hasn’t exactly been the quiet, peaceful month I anticipated a few weeks ago, but it has definitely been productive!  In more ways than one: I’ve also gotten to check several long-held goals off my DC bucket list.  Here’s a bit of what I’ve been up to in my hometown this month, and what I hope to get to soon once I return from the road:

Nationals baseball field in DC

Nationals baseball field in DC

  • My First Baseball Game in Nationals Park! I’ve never been much of a baseball fan, but my dad has been rooting passionately for the San Francisco Giants ever since they were the New York Giants back in his youth. This year, I decided it was time to check out a game in person, so some friends and I booked tickets for the Nats-Giants matchup in early August.  It was actually really fun!  I was afraid I’d be bored sitting through a whole nine innings of baseball with no escape (sorry, Dad!), but it actually turned out to be much more interesting to watch the game in person than it is on TV.  The atmosphere was great, the weather was perfect, and the stadium has Shake Shack(!)  Even though the Giants lost, it was still a fantastic evening.
  • My First-Ever Restaurant Week: Every August, DC holds Restaurant Week, when you can dine at fancy places and try out a range of cuisines and sample special menus for a fixed price.  And every year, I say I want to go but always fail to follow through…until now.  My friend and I have booked a table at one of DC’s swankest restaurants for Friday evening, and I am so excited for a gourmet experience at a relatively bargain price!  Maybe I’ll transition into being a foodie blogger (although my main criteria for restaurant selection was location and the presence of chocolate lava cake on the menu, so probably not).

And a few others I’m still hoping to check off in the next month or so:

 

  • Outdoor Yoga: I’ve always been intrigued when I passed by the swathe of people getting their yoga on in Farragut Square, but I was also a bit nervous about downward-dogging and planking in front of a crowd of commuters.  But the other day, my coworker, who knows I love yoga, brought in a flier about this outdoor yoga program, and I knew the time had come to take the plunge.  The yoga sessions happen on Tuesdays through late September, so I’ve got time, but I will definitely make it happen this year!
  • Botanical Gardens: This is one of those places in DC I’ve been meaning to get to for ages but somehow, I still haven’t visited. I’m determined to slot it into a weekend in September once I’m back from Europe.  In fact, I almost popped in the other day between meetings when I was nearby, but decided to hold off so I can give it the attention and time it deserves.
  • Food truck tasting: Another weird fact about me: I’ve lived in DC for umpteen years and NEVER EATEN FROM A FOOD TRUCK.   Seriously, that is crazy.  Food trucks are huge in DC, especially in the downtown area where I work.  My coworker and I have plans to go check out the trucks soon for lunch, so this will be an easy and delicious item to check off the list!

I leave for Europe in just a week, so I’m determined to enjoy all the DC summer I can before it’s gone.  Hot and humid it may be, but I love this time of year: blue skies, warm sunshine, long days, and a feeling of infinite possibility and excitement.  Here’s to the rest of August being as great as (and slightly more relaxing than) as the first half!

 

Have you visited DC in summer?  Any items on your own local bucket list?