Author Archive: Melissa Kaplan

Kenya, and My First Safari

Hello everyone! I’ve just returned from East Africa—Kenya and Uganda—and while the purpose of the trip was mostly work, it was, nonetheless, an amazing experience. I didn’t have too much time to explore this fascinating corner of the vast African continent—that just means I need to go back, right?—but one thing I did manage to squeeze into my brief vacation time? A safari!

My First Safari Experience

First of all, full disclosure: I’ve never particularly wanted to go on a safari. Yes, I know, it’s the ultimate travel bucket list item for millions of people, but it never really appealed to me. Why would I want to fly halfway around the globe to get into a jeep and spend hours driving down dusty roads in hopes of finding a lion or tiger dining on an unfortunate gazelle? I always figured it was a much better use of my travel time to visit a museum, cathedral, or café, rather than try to get back to nature in this manner.

But, when in Kenya, one can’t exactly turn down a safari opportunity, right? So a few colleagues and I took advantage of a meeting-free day to book ourselves a taxi and driver to take us to Nairobi National Park, which despite being a stone’s throw from the chaotic Kenyan capital features vast expanses of savannah full of giraffes, zebras, antelopes, and even lions—upon hearing that, I was sold!

Of course, the lions were nowhere in sight on the day we visited (apparently there are only a handful of them in the park, and it’s so big you’d be very lucky to spot one). But never mind. We piled into the taxi (which, I must say, did a very impressive job of handling the deeply rutted, kind of scary roads in the middle of the park—I haven’t been so nervous about making it out unharmed from a travel experience since my unfortunate boat ride on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala earlier this year), and hit the road, excited to spot whatever wildlife we could.

We had some good luck: several zebras and antelopes (and warthogs–which are just as unattractive as you’d imagine, but kind of endearing nonetheless–dining outside with us at the restaurant where we stopped for lunch after our three hour trek).

View of a mist-covered mountain near our hotel lodge outside Nairobi

Mostly though, what I remember is the broad, rolling expanse of the savannah, identical to the one I had walked through at sunrise the day before on the grounds of our hotel lodge. The landscape of Kenya is uniquely beautiful and arresting; it very much delivers the sensation that you are someplace different, someplace out of your experience, far from your daily routine and comfort zone. I love that feeling of stepping into a new landscape and taking my cue from its outline that I am far from home, in fact, about as far as it’s possible to be from the place I was born while remaining on the same planet. The Kenyan savannah, with its rolling expanse of grass dotted by sidewise-leaning acacia trees, its magnificent sunrises, and of course, its assortment of animals one can’t see at home outside of a zoo, delivered this feeling in spades.

But, back to the animals. In the big news of the day: we saw a giraffe! And by “saw,” I mean, we found a lone giraffe wandering around in the midst of the park, prompting our intrepid driver to ask if we wanted to get closer; we did. So, he literally drove us right up to the giraffe (so close that at one point we actually told him to stop, less he bump right into him—though given how huge he was, I doubt he would have felt much even if we had). For a few moments, we all set in perfect silence, snapping photos and gazing up at this huge giraffe just a few feet from us. If there is a textbook definition of a once-in-a-lifetime experience, I’d say that was it. And I came away from that moment with a new appreciation for the magnificence and grandeur of giraffes that I suspect will last forever.

The Verdict

So, now that I’ve done it once, would I go on a safari again? Honestly, I think the answer is yes. I feel this trip definitely increased my appreciation for the natural beauty of the landscape and wildlife in this corner of the world. I really want to go back to Africa on vacation, with no obligations to do anything but explore and enjoy myself (I’d love to see more of Kenya and Uganda, where I spent a few days, but I also really, really want to go to Tanzania). And when I do, I think a safari should be part of my experience, even if only for a day or two.

After all, there are still lions out there to spot, somewhere in the wilds of the African savannah. I’d say that’s as good a reason as any to return.

Have you been on a safari, or do you want to go? Visited Kenya? What was your experience like?

Africa, Kenya

Jul

Riding the Wave to East Africa

A few months ago, I was chatting with my mom one evening and reflecting how, after several rather tumultuous years, everything in my life seemed to be coming together. Work was good; family was healthy; I was feeling a newfound zest for life and, last but not least, I was getting to travel to places I’d once only dreamed of. But even as I contemplated this happy turn of events, I couldn’t help but feel a bit worried. As I confided in my mom, I always fall prey to that most human of frailties: the belief that, if things are going really well, it won’t last. What would come along to burst my happy bubble? What new threat might lurk around the corner? When would everything come crashing down around me?

I was trying to figure out how to deal with these fears in the back of my mind, to be able to enjoy my present life without being overly anxious about the future. My mom, as she always does, stepped up with some very sage advice: “Honey, just ride the wave.”

In other words, don’t look back to the past with dread or to the future with uncertainty about what it will bring. Just be here, in the moment, take it all in, and be happy.

So, I’ve been doing my best to take my mom’s advice. And now, as I set off from home again, I’m excited to announce yet another piece of good fortune this year, in the form of yet another travel adventure….

I’m going to East Africa!

Melissa’s East Africa Itinerary (with a stop on the way home…)

So, where will I be going and what will I be doing? Well, mostly working as this is a business trip, but I’m still hopeful of squeezing in some fun, travel-oriented experiences along the way…read on for details!

I leave tomorrow for Nairobi, the first stop on the trip, where I’ll be spending five days—mostly in conferences for work (which I’m excited about, as I’ll be meeting colleagues from all over the world for the first time), but I do have a full day free before I leave Kenya so I’m hoping to get to do a half-day mini-safari at a game park just outside the city. Also, on our meeting agendas, the planners have thoughtfully included an optional excursion “to see giraffes”—what’s cooler than that to kick off a workday at 6 am? The answer, obviously, is nothing!

My next stop is Uganda, where I will spend a week working, mostly in Kampala but also including a visit to the surrounding countryside. I don’t have much more detail than that yet, but I’m very excited to see even a little of this impressive-looking country (Winston Churchill once called it “The Pearl of Africa”!)

Finally, I’m wrapping up two weeks of work travel with possibly the best stopover ever: I’ll be spending three days in Paris! Again, it will mostly be meetings, but I have nearly an entire Sunday free when I arrive and, come hell or high water, I’m determined to fight off any fatigue from lack of sleep after a nine-hour night flight and get into the city to spend a little time at the Louvre (I’ve been once, but for an embarrassingly brief amount of time—I want to go back!), the Jardin des Tuilleries, and of course, the greatest draw for me in Paris: Café Angelina, home to the world’s most scrumptious hot chocolate. I’m already anticipating the happiness the visit to this chocolate shrine is going to bring me…I wish I could bring some of that divine chocolate back for every single friend, family member, and reader of this blog!

The Louvre in Paris

So, off to East Africa (and Paris) I go. And I’m pretty much leaving the experience unplanned, for things to fall into place as they may. I hope to see some wild animals in their natural habitat, discover a few hidden gems in Nairobi, and soak in the beauty of the African countryside I’ve only glimpsed in photos before. It will be quite an adventure, I’m sure…and I’m going to enjoy every minute of it and, as Mom wisely suggested, just ride the wave.

Have you been to Kenya or Uganda? Any suggestions for me? Any great recommendations for Nairobi in particular (I’m still researching!) Follow along with me on twitter (@perpetualvoyage) where I’ll try to tweet as I go, wifi permitting!

Africa, France, Kenya, Uganda

Why You Should Get Out of Your Comfort Zone and Go See The World

This year, I will celebrate a milestone birthday. As it happens, I’ve also been doing a LOT of traveling this year, with much more planned for the next few months…some of it work related (for which I’m incredibly grateful!) and much of it just for fun. Maybe it’s the anniversary of my arrival on this planet that’s spurring me on to new travel adventures (though let’s face it, I never need much prompting), but I feel like this year is a perfect time to visit as many corners of our vast, fascinating world as I can and see all that I can possibly see. So you could say that getting older is actually motivating me to travel!

However, I know it doesn’t work that way for everyone. In fact, I’ve been noticing more and more of a trend among friends and family my age or older, and that’s why I decided to write this post. (It’s going to be a long one, friends, so bear with me and settle in for a while).

The trend I’ve been noticing is that people, especially as they get older, get more and more set in their ways and fixed in a certain lifestyle. They settle into a comfort zone, and often, they simply don’t want to leave it…even when extraordinary adventure (by which, of course, I mean world travel) beckons them.

But is that really okay?

Dead Sea, Israel

Many people would probably say it’s normal. Maybe it is. But I’m going to suggest that no, it’s not okay. Not everyone can or will be a daredevil adventurer, trekking around the globe solo without a map, and that’s absolutely fine. But, I think there’s a difference between that and a person who’s completely unwilling to try anything new, and won’t even consider a vacation anyplace outside of their usual routine because “it’s too much trouble,” “it’s so far,” “I have everything I’ll ever need right here,” etc etc.

Why is this so bad? And why is it any of my business? (Honestly, it’s probably not my business, but this is my blog so I’m going to write about it anyway).

Because there is an entire world out there to be seen, explored, and experienced. And if you refuse to get out of your comfort zone even a little bit, to stretch your mind and broaden your horizons, you’re going to miss it completely. And believe me when I tell you this is not to anyone’s benefit in the long run.

We all like to be comfortable. I LOVE to be comfortable. If you know me at all, you know that I am, essentially, two different people. There’s the Melissa who loves, even thrives, on routine: my usual Saturday morning yoga class; my usual order at Starbucks; re-reading my favorite books until they fall to pieces. I love an ordered, predictable universe. If you only know this side of me, I’m probably the last person you’d ever expect to go out into the world deliberately seeking adventure.

But there’s another side to me too. I’m also the girl who’s been fascinated by the world I live in ever since I watched the news with my mom and dad as a kid and spent hours poring over my parents’ world atlas and spinning my best friend’s globe around, wondering when I would be able to get to all the mysterious-sounding places I saw on it. I’m the girl who left my home state to move to Washington, DC as soon as I graduated college, then uprooted myself again to live in Europe for two years. I’m the girl who is currently at 32 countries and five continents visited and counting (no, it’s not about the numbers, but they’re a useful illustration of how much I love to wander and explore).

Why did I do all of this? Why do I continue to travel every chance I get, as far and wide as I possibly can?

Because seeing the world is worth it. It really, really is. We live on an incredibly beautiful planet filled with diverse people and places that are just begging to be explored. Maybe you love where you live and the life you have there (me too!) but it can only enrich your life to shake up your routine every now and then and go see somewhere new. So what are you waiting for?

(Note: I fully realize that there are many people who would love to travel more but are unable to due to certain circumstances—lack of money, commitments at home, health issues, small children or elderly parents to take care of, and so on. This post isn’t aimed at them. It’s targeted at anyone who thinks it might be nice to travel and has the time and money to do so, but hasn’t quite been able to make the leap out of their usual routine to do so yet. (It’s also aimed mostly at my fellow Americans, but I think the overall message is applicable to people around the world as well). Hopefully, it will inspire people to realize that traveling far and wide is possible, valuable, and will yield them unbelievable benefits. So, if you’re one of these people, read on for my reasons on why it’s worth stepping out of your comfort zone (and how and where to do it!)

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Why People Don’t Leave the Comfort Zone

The truth is, we live in a magical age of travel. It’s never been easier or less expensive to travel overseas. So, with a whole vast planet to explore and money and freedom to do so, why don’t more people take advantage of the opportunity to get out and see the world? Here are a few reasons/excuses I’ve heard over the years from family, friends, and acquaintances (and why you shouldn’t listen to them):

“I Could Never Endure the Long Plane Ride.” I’m beginning with this because I hear it a lot, and I actually think this deters a lot of people from traveling to faraway places. I’m not going to lie; long-haul flights aren’t fun. I recently flew 20 hours each way (and back!) to get to Cambodia. South Africa was twelve hours; Europe is at least seven or eight. Yes, it’s a long time to be in an airplane, and yes, I really wish scientists would hurry up and perfect some kind of instantaneous method of transport so we can just flip a switch and pop over to faraway lands in seconds. But regardless, the plane journey doesn’t last forever. You can pass the time by sleeping (which you’re likely to do at some point anyway), reading, watching movies or binge-watching a new TV show (the entertainment selection on long-haul flights tends to be pretty damn good). And once you arrive and set foot in your new destination, I promise you all the hours en route will be well worth it. Would I have passed up the chance to swim in the waters off of Thailand or stand atop Table Mountain in Cape Town because of the long-haul flights involved? No way! Don’t let travel logistics deter you. Once you arrive, you’ll forget all about any discomforts of the flight and be so glad you made the effort.

“I Only Speak English: What If No One Can Understand Me?” This is another concern I hear a lot. Honestly, out of all the reasons that might be holding you back from overseas travel, this should be the least of your worries. English is today’s dominant global language, and if you’re going anywhere with a significant tourist industry, I promise you, people will speak at least enough English for you to be able to communicate at hotels, train stations, airports, and probably even restaurants (and if all else fails, just point to a photo on the menu!) True story: several years ago I was at a train station in Paris waiting to buy a ticket when I overheard a conversation between a German passenger at the next booth and the French ticket seller. The German asked him, “Is it okay if we do this in English?” “Sure!” replied the Frenchman. Point being, people all over the world have gone to the trouble to learn our language and are now adept at communicating in it. So instead of using lack of foreign language ability as a reason not to travel abroad, take advantage of the fact that we live in a world where English is so common and widespread!

“The World Outside My Country Is Scary and Dangerous!” This is something I think a lot of people (particularly Americans) have unfortunately internalized: the view that the world outside America’s borders is frightening and best avoided in the name of safety. Honestly, nothing could be more untrue. Our planet is HUGE, and while there are certain places I wouldn’t recommend traveling to in the near future (Syria, Afghanistan, Yemen), those aren’t places any traveler looking for a first-time trip outside the US would consider. Much of the world is incredibly safe, and may well be even safer than where you live. The media does a terrible job of portraying the world to American audiences, mostly because the things that make the news are generally wars and terrorist attacks. No real effort is made to convey the subtleties and nuances of life in foreign countries: instead, if it bleeds, it leads. “News,” by definition, tends to highlight the bad. Meanwhile, we live in an increasingly interconnected world that is making great strides against poverty, disease, and hunger, where life is better for billions of people today than it has ever been. Despite the presence of a few hot spots of danger, there are dozens of countries you can visit with virtually no risk at all. Just in case you were curious, according to the 2015 Global Peace Index, the safest countries in the world are Iceland, Denmark, Austria, New Zealand, Switzerland, Finland, Canada, Japan, Australia, the Czech Republic, Portugal, Ireland, Sweden, Belgium, and Slovenia. The U.S. actually comes in at number 94 on this list (yikes!) So if it’s safety you’re looking for, you might want to head to Scandinavia!

“There’s So Much to See in America, There’s No Reason to Go Anywhere Else!” Honestly, this is my least favorite of all the reasons people give for not going overseas…the idea that they should see America first. Why? I don’t disagree at all that America is a beautiful country full of interesting places that people should make a point of seeing. In fact, I have plenty of U.S. travel I need to do because I’ve been so focused on exploring the world outside our borders that I’ve missed a lot of my own country! But the truth is, this isn’t a valid reason never to go overseas (once, at the very least!) It’s just another excuse. You could spend the rest of your life traveling through America without a break and you still wouldn’t see a fraction of all its wonders…so why use that as an artificial barrier to getting out and seeing some of the rest of the world? Domestic travel and overseas adventures are apples and oranges: both great experiences you should have through the course of your life. Don’t make the mistake of sacrificing one for the other. It’s not necessary, and it’ll be a loss to you if you do.

“What if Something Goes Wrong?” I’m going to make this easy for you: something will go wrong. It nearly always does. But that’s okay. What’s life without a little adventure? So you miss a bus or the museum you want to visit is closed the day you show up, or you get lost wandering the streets of Prague (been there, done it). The world isn’t going to end. If you’re smart and resourceful enough to deal with minor mishaps like this at home, you can do it overseas too (especially since you’ll more than likely be able to find someone who speaks English to help you—see above). And a little research can go a long way to help too; like, know the bus departure times and museum hours before you show up!

Antigua, Guatemala

What You Gain by Leaving Your Comfort Zone

So, we’ve run through the reasons why you shouldn’t hesitate to get out of your usual routine and go see the world. But what can you expect to gain from it, exactly?

Well, beginning with the obvious and easy: the world is an incredible place. There are beautiful beaches, mountains, lakes, rivers, forests, parks and wilderness to explore. There are man-made wonders, such as the Sistine Chapel, the Pyramids of Egypt, the Taj Majal in India, the Aya Sofia in Istanbul. There are museums which hold treasures beyond imagining: the British Museum in London; the Uffizi in Florence; the Hermitage in St. Petersburg (this one is still at the top of my own list); the Louvre in Paris. There is SO. MUCH. TO. SEE. This is why wanderlust is an addiction: because once you start seeing what the world has to offer, you realize how much more there is to discover, and that you could travel your whole life and never be able to take it all in. The world is a fascinating place. That’s reason enough to go see all you can see of it while you’re alive.

But there are other reasons too—and in many ways, at least in my opinion, the other reasons to get out of your comfort zone and explore our planet are the most important.

It’s only when you get out of the comfort zone of your home and your native country that you can truly begin to grasp what other parts of the world are like, what sort of lives people live in other countries, what’s happening across our vast planet and why it matters so much to all of us. News can be helpful; books are great. But reading is not the same as seeing.

At least once in everyone’s life, you should travel to a place where English is not the native language, and try your hand at speaking a few words in French or German or Arabic. At least once in your life, you should visit a place where America is a foreign country and you are a foreigner, to learn how other people see your homeland. You should meet, talk to, laugh with, get to know people who live lives that are very different from yours, by choice or circumstances or both. What can you learn from them? What can we all learn from each other? The answer is, a lot. But you’ll never be able to start learning about the world and the people who live in it if you don’t get out and meet them.

And I think this is really, really important for Americans in particular to do. America is a very large, but very self-contained universe. Until you step outside it—speaking from my own experience—you don’t realize just how much being American, living in the United States, affects your thinking, your frame of reference, your worldview. It’s embarrassingly easy, living in America, to forget that the world outside our country even exists. We’re the last superpower on Earth, and however much pride many of us may take in that fact, the truth is I don’t think we pause to really think about it often enough. America is a juggernaut on the world stage, and that means that decisions made in the corridors of power in our country have a ripple effect on the rest of the world. From the Czech Republic to Cambodia, I’ve met people who have told me about how American foreign policy has impacted their lives deeply (in both good and bad ways). Our influence stretches across the planet like that of no nation in history, yet millions of Americans don’t own passports and have never been outside of their own country. This is a very troubling disconnect, in my opinion. It’s hard to fully understand the impact our choices make on people in other nations around the globe if we don’t get out and meet those people and visit those nations and get to know them firsthand. I firmly believe, for this reason alone, that overseas travel is something every American who has the means and ability to do should embark on at least once in their lives. The benefits are immeasurable: for us, for our understanding of the world, and for the billions of other people who live in it.

So go on…step outside America’s shores and get to know your neighbors!

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

So, Where To Go Next?

Well, I’m hoping by this point in my super-long post (if you’re still reading—and if you are, thank you!), I’ve convinced you that getting out of your comfort zone to see the world is well worth it. And now for the next (and very fun) question: where should you go?

I figured I couldn’t write a 3,000+ word post on exploring the world without offering some suggestions for where to go to do it…so read on below! All of these places have their own unique charms, but what they have in common is that they’re a bit outside the norm for many American travelers, but they’re accessible and safe, and can be traveled to without much difficulty (even solo–I know, I’ve traveled solo in every one!) And each one of them can offer you a unique perspective on this dynamic and diverse world we live in (as well as some fantastic vacation memories).

Cambodia—Cambodia is a beautiful, diverse country in a fascinating region of the world: it would make a great introduction to Southeast Asia, in my opinion. Since my recent visit, I’ve been recommending it to just about anyone. It has pretty much all you could want in a vacation spot–temples, beaches, cosmopolitan cities, traditional countryside–and in addition to all these attributes, it has a history that will make you pause and reflect and remarkably kind-hearted and welcoming people who will do their utmost to make your time in their country a wonderful experience.
South Africa—South Africa is the perfect country to make anyone fall in love with the world. I only got to visit Cape Town and the surrounding wine region on my trip, but there’s so much more to see that I can’t wait to go back! Beaches, mountains, beautiful rolling vineyards, dynamic and fascinating cities filled with culture: you could spend months here and not see it all. It’s also a great destination because yes, everyone really will speak English, yet it feels adventurous for an American because you are literally traveling to the other side of the world! Win-win.
Czech Republic—I lived in Prague for a year, and I highly recommend visiting the city and checking out the rest of the Czech Republic while you’re there. When most Americans think of Europe, they often focus first on England, France, and Italy—all great countries that should absolutely be seen. But the Czech Republic is fascinating too: a beautiful country with a fascinating history dating back centuries that’s still evident today in its architecture, streets, and museums. Prague makes a great jumping off point for other parts of Central Europe (don’t miss Budapest while you’re so close!), and since in my opinion this is one of the world’s most fascinating regions, you shouldn’t miss it. The Czech Republic is well-touristed and easy to navigate while still feeling foreign and as though you’re stepping into a different world. It’s a place I believe everyone should visit.
Turkey—When I think of East-meets-West cross-cultural destinations, I would probably think first of Turkey. This majestic country is an impressive place with a dazzling history (you can probably pick up on a theme here, I’m big on traveling to places with historical relevance), a cosmopolitan and easy-to-explore capital in Istanbul where you can see the Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand and Spice Bazaars, and plenty of other places that will make you feel you’ve left your familiar routine of home far behind. And I didn’t even make it to Cappadocia, with its lunar landscape over which you can ride in a hot air balloon, or the gorgeous aquamarine waters of the coasts where you can take a small boat for leisurely days at sea exploring far-flung Turkish islands. And yes, despite being located in a rather volatile neighborhood, Turkey is a very safe destination. I traveled there solo a few years ago and had no safety problems (though being a solo, blond woman did draw some attention, so if you don’t feel like doing this trip alone it might be a good one to take with friends). But be sure to go, regardless.
Iceland—This last entry might seem a bit odd, since Iceland, to me, doesn’t really get one outside the comfort zone as much as the other places on this list will…but that’s just fine. Maybe this is your first trip outside the U.S., or your first solo trip, and you want to start a bit smaller. If you’re not ready for Turkey or Cambodia yet, Iceland is perfect. It’s easy to get around (though renting a car would help, but you can still do day-trips if you don’t have one); literally everyone speaks English; its capital of Reykjavik is charming and compact, feeling a little like Europe and a little like its own thing altogether; and the landscapes and nature here are stunning. Seriously, waterfalls, geysers, glaciers, parks everywhere that pretty much redefined natural beauty for me on my recent trip. Iceland is a great spot to begin your international travels, but it’s a place that I think should really be on everyone’s bucket list, from travel newbie to experienced vagabonder. Iceland, quite simply, is the best. I’m already looking forward to the day I can return.

Wine country, South Africa

Gulfoss waterfall, Iceland

Old Town Square, Prague, Czech Republic

Now, Get Out There—The World Is Waiting for You!

In conclusion: yes, you could spend every summer for the rest of your life going back to the same beach house you always rent on Cape Cod or the Jersey Shore. And you’ll probably have a good time and be quite content. But sometimes, that’s not enough. We can only discover new things that will enrich our lives if we’re willing to step out of our box of routine—job, commute, bills, daily drama and worries—and make a conscious effort to go someplace new, try something different, get out there and explore. Even if you can’t travel to Patagonia next week, you can still take some great steps in this direction: read a new book. Take a language (or any other kind of) class. Eat at a different restaurant and sample a new cuisine. Shake it up. Try something you haven’t done before.

But, if you are fortunate enough to have the means to travel across the globe to seek out a new country, a new perspective, and a new adventure, I can’t recommend it highly enough. It will change you, transform your life and the way you think about that life and your place in the world.

“Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer,” as the famous saying goes. The wealth you can gain from travel, from breaking out of your comfort zone and roaming far and wide, is immeasurable. So don’t hesitate, don’t hold back, don’t make excuses. Just do it!

Asia, Cambodia, Eastern/Central Europe, Iceland, Praha, South Africa, Travel Musings

Slovenia, Here I Come!

Do you have a dream destination? A little corner of the globe you’ve been gazing at longingly for years in guidebooks and on maps, fantasizing about the day you’d actually get to experience its magical lure in person?

It should come as no surprise that I have such a place. Actually, let’s be honest, I have TONS of them (hello New Zealand, Bali, Vietnam, Russia, Australia….). And I’ve been fortunate enough to visit many of my one-time dream locations already (Buenos Aires, Istanbul, South Africa, Thailand, Europe….).

But my bucket list is endless when it comes to travel and exploring this beautiful planet. And for years, there’s been one small pocket of Europe I’ve longed to visit and have somehow never made it to. But this August, that will change.

Hello, Slovenia, I’m finally coming for you!

(And Croatia and London, I’ll be swinging by you as well….)

Melissa’s Slovenian (and Croatian) Adventure

This Slovenia trip has been a dream of mine for years, and I’m so excited that it’s finally happening. For roughly a decade, ever since I lived in Central Europe and began exploring the magical cities and charming, history-laden small town that dot its landscape, I’ve wanted to see Slovenia. I almost went a few times, but something always got in the way (by which I mean, some other destination pulled me in just a bit more strongly).

But Slovenia kept calling to me, and its pull only got stronger as the years went by. I had originally been intrigued by its charming, café-filled capital of Ljubljana, which looks like heaven for those of us who have a thing for medium-sized Central European cities (I miss that part of the world badly). And lately, I’ve been more and more drawn in by photos of Lake Bled, which might just be home to the most stunning castle-on-an-island-on-a-lake in the world. Slovenia seems like a perfect blend of beautiful cities, small town charm, and natural abundance in the form of mountains, lakes, and even beaches. It looks absolutely perfect. What’s not to love?

So this year, I decided it was time to finally stop delaying and making excuses, and to jump into Slovenia with both feet and discover all that this beautiful country has to offer. I booked my plane ticket a few weeks ago and have been on a high ever since!

So what is there to see and do in Slovenia, you might ask? Plenty! Here are some of my plans:

Ljubljana—I plan to spend a few days here soaking up the architecture, taking in the views of the castle and the famous bridge, and acquainting myself with as many outdoor cafes as I possibly can.
Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj—While Lake Bled is legendary, I’ve heard Lake Bohinj is even more of a stunner—and less crowded! So I clearly have to take a few days to explore them both! I’ll be based in Bled but do a day-trip to Lake Bohinj to see which one I like best.
The countryside—I’m looking to find a day tour that will allow me to see a lot of the gorgeous, varied Slovenian countryside in one trip. I’m hoping this will include some time at Mt. Triglav, Slovenia’s famous peak; the Vrsic pass in the mountains; and perhaps rafting on the Soca river (or at least getting up close to its stunning blue waters!)

But, this trip won’t be only about Slovenia. Because the country is so compact and so close to Croatia, I just have to make a return visit to one of my favorite countries…but this time, I’ll be exploring a different part of it. When I visited Croatia back in 2007, I stuck to Dubrovnik and Split, fairly common for first time visitors (and well worth seeing, especially Dubrovnik). This time I’ll be staying in the north of Croatia, basing myself in the capital city of Zagreb (another charming Central European city, yay!), and then hopping down to the Plitvice Lakes to see the famous waterfalls.

So if this trip has a theme at all, it’s clearly water. Or nature. Or both.

Finally, I’ve booked myself a flight into London, one of my favorite cities in the world and my one-time home, where much of my family still lives. I’ll have three days in London before I fly to Slovenia, so I’m excited to hit a few museums, spend time with my aunts, uncles, and cousins, and eat all the curry. (Oh, and stock up on that chocolate chip shortbread that only UK Starbucks seem to sell).

I’m so happy that I’m finally going to be able to make my Slovenia dream trip a reality. It’s still more than two months away, but I’m already feeling the anticipation. Slovenia, Croatia, and London, here I come! I couldn’t be more excited to explore new dream destinations while revisiting one of my favorite cities in the world.

Let the summer of Slovenia begin!

Have you visited Slovenia or northern Croatia? Any suggestions or tips for me? Do you have a dream destination you have always longed to visit?

Croatia, Eastern/Central Europe, London, Slovenia

My Favorite Things in Phnom Penh

To be honest, when I journeyed there last month as part of my Cambodia visit, I didn’t quite know what to expect from Phnom Penh. I’d heard mixed reviews about the city; some people loved it, others were far less enthusiastic. I wasn’t sure which side of the divide I’d come down on.

Now that I’ve had the chance to spend a few days in Cambodia’s capital, I can wholeheartedly attest that it’s a fascinating place that I really enjoyed. It managed to feel both cosmopolitan and exotic; fairly accessible, yet still a bit of an adventure. I know that for most people heading to Cambodia, the temples of Angkor and perhaps the beaches will be the biggest draw. But I think you’d be remiss not to plan for a few days in Phnom Penh as well. It really is a pretty fun city with a lot to do and many different attractions to enjoy.

On that note, and in no particular order, here is a list of my personal favorites from Phnom Penh….

My Favorite Things in Phnom Penh

The Royal Palace. This was the biggest tourist attraction I took in while in the city, and it really is pretty impressive (and made up for my slight disappointment with the National Museum: not bad, but I guess I was expecting something a bit bigger and grander in scale). The Royal Palace is easy to walk around and features all sorts of architecturally interesting buildings and impressively manicured gardens, as well as a nice central garden/pond filled area where you can relax on your way out, as I did. It’s definitely a sight worth seeing.

Royal Palace gardens

Tuk-tuks. To be honest, I was a little hesitant about getting into my first tuk-tuk (a sort of cart with a cushioned bench attached to a motorbike, manned by a driver who can whisk you anywhere in the city for a few dollars). Were they really a safe way to navigate the city’s super-crowded streets and intimidating traffic? Well, aside from motorbikes they’re pretty much the only way, so that settled that. And after a day or two, I grew to really love the tuk-tuk experience. You get to ride through the congested streets and watch as your driver adeptly navigates traffic that would give most people a panic attack back home, so skillfully that you soon lose any fear of getting into an accident (trust me, it’s far, far less scary than trying to walk around the city!) And you get a view of the capital that’s unmatched by a car or taxi, because you have the chance to absorb the sights, sounds, smells and feel of the city as you whiz past. It wasn’t long before I found myself getting excited every time I got to take another tuk-tuk, and it’s still one of the things I miss most about Cambodia now.

The Food. Prior to arriving in Phnom Penh, I’d spent several days in the remote Cambodian countryside, and while it was an incredible experience, I was more than ready to switch up my soup- and rice-filled diet for something a bit more diverse and exciting when I got to the city. Phnom Penh didn’t disappoint. Pretty much every kind of food you could ever want can be found here, and I didn’t even have time to try all of the restaurants I’d hoped to sample. I did especially love Blue Pumpkin, a popular, stylishly designed expat-hangout which features good Western food (I ate there three times and had the same thing at every meal: tuna sandwich with avocado, French fries, and ice cream. Not exactly cultural immersion, but hey, I needed a break from rice!) I ate more authentic Khmer cuisine at my other favorite spot, Frizz, where I dined twice and enjoyed their excellent penang chicken curry and rice. Next time I’m in Phnom Penh, I look forward to checking out even more discoveries on the foodie front.

Bliss Spa! Anyone who knows me knows what a spa junkie I am, and there was no way I was going to miss out on an inexpensive massage (or three) while in Cambodia. Bliss Spa was recommended by every blogger, guidebook, and person familiar with the country as the best spot for a massage, and indeed, it was amazing. For $30 you can get a 90-minute massage, and $22 will buy you an hour. (Go for the hour and a half, obviously, if you have enough time). I had two excellent massages there, the staff are delightful, and the setting is beautiful, calm and relaxing (and even features a shop selling all types of clothes and decorative items in front; I would have loved to buy one of the beautifully designed throw pillows to take home, if I could have fit it into my luggage!) Bliss Spa is a fantastic experience and one you absolutely must try if you’re in Phnom Penh.

The People. This is really more of a universal Cambodia thing than Phnom Penh specific, but I have to close this list by mentioning how wonderful the people in the city were. Everyone I met was kind, friendly, and helpful; I didn’t have a single negative encounter during my entire trip, and was really blown away by how lovely the Khmer people are. As many others have said (and it’s true) the people alone may be the best reason to visit Cambodia. As it’s true of the country, I’d say it’s true of Phnom Penh as well.

Have you been to Phnom Penh? What did you think of it? What were your favorite things in the city?

Asia, Cambodia

Asian Adventures: Shanghai and Cambodia

If you’ve been following my twitter account (@perpetualvoyage), you probably noticed I’ve been doing quite a bit of traveling recently. I just returned from two weeks in Southeast Asia: Cambodia, with a layover visit to Shanghai. It was a work trip, and didn’t fully come together until the last minute, so my days prior to departure were a bit of a whirlwind: securing a visa, getting my flight booked, making various travel plans, and of course, everyone’s favorite, packing. So despite the best of intentions, I didn’t get a chance to blog about my trip in advance, but now that I’m back I’m excited to share the highlights of my Asian adventure! Just a brief teaser below….more to come.

Shanghai

Shanghai is a city I’d long been curious to visit. I figured I’d check it out as part of an eventual China trip, but when a flight option popped up with a fifteen-hour layover in the city, I jumped at it. I’d never been to China, and was excited at the opportunity to explore a place that had always interested me en route to my destination.

I enjoyed my time in Shanghai, but definitely felt I only scratched the surface (that’s a layover for you!) My main tourist activity was going to the Bund to see the Shanghai skyline along the waterfront. It’s definitely an impressive vista, but unfortunately I was there on a grey and rainy day which took away from the magic, but just a bit. More disappointing was my attempt to visit the nearby Shanghai Museum, a free(!) showcase for Chinese art, sculpture, and civilization. After walking a good half-hour from the Bund, I got in line and was told when I arrived inside that I’d have to leave my laptop at the check-in area as it wasn’t permitted inside. Understandable I suppose, but given that this was my work laptop which I was going to need on my trip, I didn’t feel comfortable being separated from it for even a few hours, just in case. So I sadly turned around and left without seeing any of the wonders of the museum, and made my way to lunch before returning to the airport for my flight to Phnom Penh. Disappointing, but on the bright side, it gives me a good reason to return to Shanghai someday, and I suspect that I will; there’s still plenty more to explore in the city on a future (non-work-related) visit!

Angkor Wat at sunrise.

Cambodia

Cambodia was the main focus of my Southeast Asian journey. I was there for nearly two weeks, and got to see several different parts of the country: Phnom Penh, the capital; Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor; and the countryside of Preah Vihear, off the standard tourist track, where I was working for the first part of my trip.

I’ll write more about the details in future posts, but suffice it to say Cambodia was a profound and memorable experience for me. It’s a country I’d long thought about visiting, but I was fortunate to get to stay as long as I did and have time off of work to explore as a tourist on top of that. I got to experience the country at a fairly leisurely pace, and that was a welcome change from how my travel life usually functions.

As much as I really enjoyed Phnom Penh, and as impressive as the temples are, I have to say that what impacted me most about Cambodia, and what really defined my time there in my memory, was the people. Every single person I met was friendly, kind, and generous, without exception. I learned a great deal from talking with them about their lives, their country, and the history of Cambodia—often dark and turbulent, which makes the resilience of its people all the more remarkable and impressive.

If you get a chance to visit Cambodia, I really, really encourage you to go; it’s an incredible, fascinating country that’s friendly, accessible, inexpensive, and greatly rewards exploration. Go, and stay as long as you can and see as much as you’re able. You won’t regret it.

Have you ever been to Cambodia? Visited Shanghai? What were your thoughts and impressions?

Cambodia, China

May

Why Haven’t I Been to Russia Yet?

Eastern/Central Europe, Russia, Travel Musings

Every traveler has it. That one destination you dream about above all others, that magical locale that pulls you in with some special lure that speaks to you in a way no other place on earth does. The city or country or continent you can’t rest until you see.

I have one of those too. And thirty countries after I began my exploration of this vast and fascinating planet, I still haven’t seen it.

It’s a question I ask myself often when I make my travel plans: Why haven’t I been to Russia yet?

Ah, Russia. Land of Tolstoy and Dostoevsky and Solzhenitsyn. Home of Red Square and the Kremlin, St. Petersburg’s Hermitage, and the Trans-Siberian Railway’s epic winding cross-country route from Moscow to Vladivostok. Art, ballet, literature, architecture, history, vodka. So many reasons to experience this magical country.

And yet…I still haven’t.

Russia and I have a long history of near-misses. It began nearly two decades ago (eek!) when I was in college. A friend and I had a chance to take a winter break trip to Russia; my parents agreed and were willing to finance it as a cultural experience (God, I miss being a college student); our plans were all set and then—everything fell apart. Our trip was cancelled after the tour guide pulled out (understandable, but still heartbreaking for both of us), and my dreams of seeing Russia were scrapped. But, only temporarily, right?

Several years later, I had another chance. While living in London during graduate school, a group of fellow students were planning a trip to Moscow. I was excited to join in on the adventure…then saw the cost. The brief trip would have totaled more than $1000, not terrible in retrospect perhaps, but far beyond the budget of my student self. Once again, I had to give up the dream…temporarily, I was sure.

Russia would still happen. I would find a way!

But, eight years later and here we are. I’ve been many incredible places, but I haven’t yet fulfilled my ultimate travel goal.

Why haven’t I made a Russia trip happen yet, when I’ve managed to see so many other corners of the globe? It’s a question that still haunts me. Sometimes I feel like I shouldn’t go anywhere else until I see Russia.

But…Russia is hard. At least that’s what I’ve gathered from many who’ve visited there. It’s intimidating. It’s expensive (Moscow in particular, which is always at the top of “World’s Most Expensive Cities” lists). It’s not necessarily a breeze for solo travelers. The visa process is a pain. Russian is a difficult language (I know: I took a class, finally, to at least get my feet wet for future travels), and not everyone in Russia will necessarily speak other languages like English to help travelers out (not that they are obliged to, of course, but it does throw up one more hurdle for a non-Russian speaker. Hey, at least I finally know the Cyrillic alphabet! That’s something, right?)

So yes, there are plenty of reasons that Russia is a more challenging destination than many others. And honestly, I think that’s what’s kept me away. There’s always somewhere easier, less stressful, less imposing that I could visit, and so I do. But is this okay?

I’m going to throw down the gauntlet right now and tell myself, No. It’s not.

Yes, Russia is a challenge for many travelers. Travel there, especially if I opt to go solo, won’t be a cakewalk. But Russia has been calling to me since my teens. It’s a place I need to see. I need to soak in the magnificent artwork of the Hermitage, stroll down Nevsky Prospect, see Lenin’s tomb in Red Square where so much 20^th century history unfolded, watch a world-class ballet at the Mariinsky, dip my toes in Lake Baikal, and ride the Trans-Siberian railway from one end of the vast country to the other. My life as a traveler won’t be complete until I do. So it’s about time I make it happen. No more excuses.

I have a number of other trips coming up this year and next, so it may take a while to properly plan and execute my journey. But I’ve waited twenty years; I can wait two more, right?

2018: The Year of the Russian Adventure? Yes. I like the sound of that.

Have you been to Russia? Is there any place like this for you that you’ve always dreamed of seeing? How did you finally make it happen?

Apr

The Annoying Travel Question

Recently, I was catching up with a friend and the talk turned to some of the travel adventures I have in store for this year. I was outlining my summer trip to Europe (don’t have my tickets booked yet, but you know, whatever!), and when I finished rhapsodizing about the countries I planned to visit and the places I hoped to see, my friend asked the following question, “So, are you going with anyone?”

Why does this question annoy me?

I mean, it’s not totally unreasonable for someone to ask. Sometimes I travel alone, sometimes with others, so what I’ll be doing on any trip is never a given. Was I feeling like I needed to defend my decision to travel solo, if that’s what I was going to do? No, I wasn’t. My friend wasn’t asking about my plans in any sort of critical or judgmental way, and has never expressed the sentiment that I’m crazy to travel by myself. (In fact, no one ever has. Am I just extraordinarily lucky in that respect? Anyway, that’s probably a blog post for another day…)

So why do I find this question—which I seem to get fairly often from many people in my life—to be somewhat off-putting?

I think the answer is because it completely misses the point.

When I plan a trip, I’m almost never thinking of it in terms of being a “solo trip”, “trip with friends,” “family trip,” etc. Of course, those factors come into play in the type of experience I’m likely to have. And sometimes, who I’m going with is the point of my trip—for instance, a birthday cruise with my mom or a weekend in Portland with my best friend who lives several states away.

But generally, I don’t travel to be with people and I don’t travel to be alone. I travel to travel.

If I had to articulate why I’m going on any given trip, my answer would nearly always be, “Because Country X looks amazing and I really want to see it.” That’s it. I want to go there, so I do. Maybe alone, maybe with friends, but no matter what, if I want to see it badly enough, I make it happen.

And honestly, while this mentality is pretty common among hard-core travelers stricken with severe wanderlust, I think it’s still a bit of a foreign concept (no pun intended) to many others who don’t fall into that category. Most of my friends would never consider going on a trip alone. To them, travel is something you do if the opportunity arises and you have someone to go with, not a cherished goal that you prioritize and make a reality no matter what, whether solo or with company.

It’s almost as though having a travel companion “legitimizes” travel to many people, because that’s something they can understand. What they can’t comprehend is wanting to see a new place badly enough to be willing to do it alone. It’s the sort of thing that makes us travel junkies stand out as a bit odd. Not that I have any problem with that…but I do wonder if that’s where this question really arises from. Are people just trying to contextualize my efforts to see the world into something they can relate to and understand?

I guess that makes a certain level of sense. But I still think it’s rather unnecessary to raise the question at all.

Asking a potential traveler “are you going with anyone” just feels strange to me. Honestly, why does it matter? Will the Julian Alps be more or less memorable with someone by my side? Will the Plitvice waterfalls somehow look different? Will the curry in Brick Lane in London taste better? I don’t think so.

There are certainly advantages to both solo and accompanied travel. But generally speaking, when I take off on a journey I’m doing it for myself; to satisfy some wanderlust I desperately need to quench. Or to just pop into a new place that looks cool. But it’s about the experience itself, not who I choose to share it with. This may not be the case for everyone, but it’s almost always true for me.

So in future, when anyone asks about my travel plans, I’ll tell them yes, I’m traveling with my friend so-and-so, or no, I’m going alone this time. But I’ll also add—as I nearly always do—that I’m going no matter what.

Are there travel questions that annoy you? What are they?

Travel Musings

Apr

Postcard from DC: Cherry Blossoms!

It’s that time of year again, the very best time to be in DC (and loads of tourists seem to agree with that statement): Cherry Blossom season is here!

Well, technically, the blossoms have pretty much peaked at this point, and—full disclosure—I didn’t actually make a trip out to see them in full bloom around the city’s monuments, despite some recent gorgeous sunny weather. Major fail re: my goal to see more of the beauty in my own backyard.

However, it’s worth pointing out that I’ve been to see the cherry blossoms many times before, and as beautiful as they are—once you’ve seen one blossoming tree, you’ve seen them all, right?

Yet the truth is I really do love the beautiful buds that pop up all over DC this time of year. As many years as I’ve spent living here, I’m still not immune to their beauty.

Fortunately, I have a lovely, pink and white blossoming tree right in my own front yard! It’s not technically a cherry blossom tree, but it’s gorgeous, and I look forward to seeing it bloom for an all-too-brief week or so every year. This magical tree has already transitioned from fluffy white flowers to more sedate, smaller pink buds…still beautiful, just in a different way. And soon, it will turn green and leafy, and while that’s definitely a big improvement over its barren winter state, I do admit that I’ll miss walking past those white blossoms every day.

So, in honor of my favorite neighborhood tree, here’s a photo from a few weeks ago showing it in its full springtime glory, followed by some photos of the official cherry blossoms from earlier years when I was ambitious enough to brave the crowds and go into town to see them. (It really is always worth it. Next year!)

My neighborhood almost-cherry-blossom tree!

Cherry blossoms near the Washington Monument and Jefferson Memorial.

DC, US travel, Washington

Apr