Author Archive: Melissa Kaplan

London: A Cornucopia of (Affordable) Experiences

I could begin this post by quoting the whole ‘tired of London, tired of life’ line, but let’s face it, that’s been done. Yet at its core it’s quite true: London has pretty much every type of experience—cultural, historical, literary, and so on—that you could possibly hope to fit into a lifetime, much less a brief trip. So if you’re going there with limited time, where to start?

I was fortunate enough to live in London for a year, while I was earning my graduate degree, which means I have a perspective of someone who a) was there for an extended period—though I still never saw as much as I intended to; and b) had very little cash to splash. Luckily, London is surprisingly budget-friendly if you know the right places to go and the right approach to take. It’s far from a cheap city, but there really are ways to enjoy it without breaking the bank.

First-time visitors will, naturally, gravitate to the big-ticket items: Buckingham Palace, the Tower of London, Big Ben, the Tate Modern (which I personally hate, but to each their own), and Covent Garden, among others. This post isn’t meant to be a bucket list, nor any kind of comprehensive guide; rather, it’s a roundup of suggestions for a day’s worth of fun, worthwhile activities that don’t cost an extraordinary amount of money. It’s a very subjective list, based on my own experiences and preferences, but I hope some of you will find it valuable. London’s calling!

Some Awesome, (Relatively) Cheap or Free Things To Do in London
• Bookstores: London is a literary city, and it has some really fantastic bookstores. The standard Waterstones are dotted all over town, and plenty of other great browsing spots can be found throughout the city as well. However, my personal favorite bookstore (and probably place) in London is Stanford’s, the travel bookstore, near Covent Garden. Yes, a whole, three-level bookstore dedicated to travel. Can you imagine how excited I was to discover this? Stanford’s has every type of travel guide you could want, as well as maps and globes galore, but it also features a wide selection of literature with a travel theme, so you can not only plan your next adventure but pick up reading material for it along the way.

• Museums: This is an obvious one, but London has some fantastic museums and many of them are free (legacy of the Queen’s Jubilee a decade ago). The National Gallery, on Trafalgar Square, is one of those freebies, and if ever there were a museum well worth spending money to get into, it’s this one. Fantastic, top-tier art from all eras and genres (including lots of Impressionists and plenty of British artist JMW Turner, whose work I’m a big fan of).

The British Museum is a must for history buffs. Whatever era of world history intrigues you, you’ll find it well-covered here, and probably learn a ton you didn’t know before you came in. I’ve been a few times, and once was lucky enough to go with a British friend who teaches social studies and is an expert on ancient history, which is well outside my sphere. I learned a ton from her, and from the museum, about ancient Greece and Rome that day. The building itself is huge and beautiful, with an enormous domed ceiling, and is well worth seeing for the architecture alone. But really, it’s all about satisfying your inner history nerd; no museum in the world is likely to do it better.

My other favorite museum isn’t free, but that shouldn’t deter you. The Churchill Museum and Cabinet War Rooms demand to be seen by anyone with an interest in the history of the World War Two era. In fact, even if you’re not that interested, go anyway. The Second World War was a defining event in modern British history, and I don’t think you can truly understand the country without delving into this period a bit. The Cabinet War Rooms are the place where Prime Minister Churchill and his colleagues ran the war, and they’ve been left exactly as they were the moment the fighting ceased, creating a fascinating time capsule. The Churchill Museum portion of the building focuses on Churchill’s life, and is one of the rare museums I could hang out in forever and never get bored. What can I say, Winston is fascinating. Go to learn more about his life, his war leadership, and how he helped shape the world during the twentieth century’s most tumultuous days.

• Covent Garden: Yes, it’s touristy, but it’s also free (as long as you stick to just walking around—eating and buying stuff bumps it up a price category). And it’s a really great central spot to observe street life, performers, and just spend an afternoon people-watching. Covent Garden is high on my list of must-do’s every time I’m in London for even a day or two.

• Parks: Londoners love the sun, in large part due to the fact that they almost never get to see it. Seriously, before I moved there, it never occurred to me that it could rain just about every day, that the constant gloomy grey drizzle could persist for months on end and that even in June, the mercury would struggle to rise to acceptable summer temperatures. But on the bright side, so to speak, the rarity of a sunny London day makes it all the more precious and to be savored. The instant the sun breaks through the grey fog for a few hours, Londoners are on it, heading to the nearest park to soak up the goodness. My personal favorite is Green Park, where it costs nothing to plop down on the grass (may be a few pounds if you want a chair, but c’est la vie), and read a book, or play a game with friends, or just sit and do nothing and enjoy the unexpected rush of Vitamin D.

• Brick Lane: So, you’ll notice perhaps that I’ve gotten this far and haven’t mentioned food yet? Well, for those on a budget, food isn’t the greatest of London’s attractions (I’m sure there was plenty of good food on offer when I lived there, but I’m equally sure I couldn’t have afforded to eat it). However, there are two saving graces in London where eating out is concerned: pubs and curry. Stop into pretty much any pub and you can get some decent food (as well as a quintessential British experience) for 5-10 pounds. It will likely be fish and chips or cottage pie (my two favorites) but there’s nothing wrong with that. Especially since Brits like to put gravy on chips, aka French fries. I am so. On. Board. With. That.

If you want something aside from pub fare, however, head to Brick Lane, which I like to think of as the world capital of curry. From one end of the street to another, it’s pretty much a solid wall of curry shops, and touts galore trying to convince you that theirs is the best value, the best food, so much better than all the other similar-looking curry houses on the block! While these sales pitches can be a bit overwhelming, they are ultimately going to help you, because if you shop around, take your time, and don’t pick a place too fast, you’ll be deluged with offers of discounts—free drinks, free appetizers, 20 percent off your bill, and on and on. Most of the curry restaurants on Brick Lane are good, if not great, and you’ll probably have a decent meal in any of them and not pay a fortune. Where you go doesn’t matter too much, but the whole process of deciding can be half the fun.

And finally, if you’re on a budget and all else fails…pop into Starbucks and order the chocolate chip shortbread. For a few measly pounds, you’ll discover the true meaning of happiness. 

Been to London recently? Got any good budget activity recommendations, especially when it comes to food? Share!

Praha, Land of Dreams

I’ll start by acknowledging that yes, I’m being borderline-pretentious and using Praha as the name of my former city, rather than Prague. Because that’s its name in its native country, and that’s what I got used to calling it when I lived there. So Praha it will always be to me. Anyway, it flows much more nicely than the other version, don’t you think?

And for me, in many ways, Praha was indeed a land of dreams. It’s the first place I ever lived overseas, where I made some amazing friends and had a lot of incredible experiences (mostly good, some challenging, almost all memorable) that I still recall fondly nearly a decade later. I haven’t been back since I left, in part because I know that returning would be so strange without the presence of the friends I experienced the city with all those years ago, who shaped my time there so much. But nonetheless, Praha will always hold a special place in my heart.

I went to the Czech Republic to teach English, like so many other young Americans and Brits have done since the fall of the Iron Curtain a quarter of a century ago. And I may have taught a few people a bit about English grammar and conversation (I hope so, anyway!) but I learned far more. I learned how to survive in a foreign land, how to live in a place where I barely spoke the language, how to make friends with people around the world, how to navigate cobblestoned streets, how to order cheese in a Czech supermarket, how to figure out bit by bit what really mattered to me in life. (I admit, I’m still working on that last one). Praha really did change my world, and it gave me far more in return than I could ever have brought over with me.

In honor of all this, I thought one of my first blog posts on a specific place should therefore be about Praha and some of my favorite places and experiences in the city. Here they are, in no particular order:

1) Café life—Europe is famous for cafes and the whole concept of relaxing over cups of hot liquid accompanied by pastries, newspapers, or books, where you can while away hours on end without rushing. Praha excels here. Among my favorite haunts when I lived in there were the cafes, especially Kavarna Slavia, right on the Vltava River which bisects the city, and Café Louvre. My friends and I would gather every Sunday evening at Kavarna Slavia for horka cocolada (hot chocolate) and rehashing our weekends as we geared up for the week of teaching ahead. It’s still one of my favorite memories of traditions we established in the city, a routine that made life in a strange faraway city feel a little more like home.

2) Petrin Hill—in springtime, Praha is at its finest, and Petrin Hill was one of my favorite places to climb up to with friends, sit on the grass and people watch and observe the world go by as the flowers bloomed around us and heralded the arrival of warm weather.

3) Old Town Square—this probably should have come first, as it’s the first magical place that hooked me when I arrived in Praha. By the time I left, I usually avoided it, seeing it as a bit of a

tourist trap (which it unfortunately is—but with good reason). Tourists aside, this is one of the most beautiful public squares in Europe, and you can’t miss it if you’re in the city. The spires of the town hall building, the famous astronomical clock, the pastel-colored restaurants, cafes, and shops lining the cobblestoned central square, with countless streets labeled with red street sign placards in indecipherable Czech lettering branching off in all directions, just begging to be explored. I don’t recommend eating or drinking much here as it will cost you an arm and a leg, but sitting in the center of the square and gawking up at the amalgam of architecture will cost you nothing and will probably be the highlight of your Czech experience. Praha was mercifully spared from destruction or damage in WW2, so unlike many of the other rebuilt cities around Central Europe, here you’re looking at the real, unreconstructed old town of centuries past. Take it in, and be awed.

4) Beer gardens—I hate beer, but I love beer gardens. Rows upon rows of seats and benches in beautiful leafy outdoor settings—my favorite was perched on the edge of the Vltava and offered spectacular views—where you can soak up warm evening weather and hang out with your friends for hours enjoying nature and good conversation. What’s not to love?

5) The Charles Bridge—Touristy as it is, of course this makes the list. It’s beautiful, historic, and features live musicians busking for change as well as artists selling their wares—usually paintings or photographs of Praha, several of which I bought during my time there as gifts for friends and family back home, or just for myself. If you’re lucky enough to come when it’s less crowded, it’s even more magical.

6) Smazeny syr—Fried cheese. Need I say more? Well, I will add that this is considered a vegetarian staple by the Czechs, who don’t really do salads (or at least they didn’t when I lived there), and that this meal is both delicious and artery clogging and should be eaten sparingly. But be sure to try it.

7) The Mucha Museum and Museum of Communism—These were my two favorite museums in the city. Alfons Mucha was a reknowned Czech artist who became famous originally for his art deco work in Paris at the turn of the 20th century, before coming back to Praha to dedicate his life to the idea of an independent Czechoslovakia, which finally materialized in 1918 in the aftermath of WW1. His work from all stages of his career, including his haunting and beautiful paintings depicting the life and struggles of the people in his native land, are on display here, and it’s a fascinating glimpse into his life. As for the Museum of Communism, I’m a history nerd, and this place does a fine job of laying out the story of how Communism came to Czechoslovakia and Prague, before finally being shaken off by the Czech people in the 1989 Velvet Revolution. Both museums were highlights of my time in Praha and are well worth checking out.

8) Vasklatske Namesti—Or as the non-Czech world knows it, Wenceslas Square. This is one of those places that may not strike you as very interesting at first glance if you don’t have some

insight into the history behind it. Today, it’s essentially a big long plaza with a lot of shops lining it—including, when I lived there, a McDonalds and a Sephora. But Vasklatske Namesti has played host to the history not just of Praha, but of Europe itself in the 20th century. This is where the Nazi troops marched in in 1939 when they took the city under their control, and where the Soviet tanks rolled in in 1945 to drive them out. This is the place where students and other Czechs and Slovaks revolted in the brief Prague Spring uprising of 1968 before it was brutally suppressed by the USSR and its Warsaw Pact allies, and twenty-one years later, it’s where the next generation rose up and threw off Communism for good in the peaceful Velvet Revolution during the magical autumn of 1989. Go see it, look around, and contemplate everything that happened in this square over the past hundred years. I don’t think it’s possible to come away unmoved.

Have you been to Praha? What did you think of it? What are some of your favorite places and experiences from your time there?