Eastern/Central Europe

The Pastel Magic of St. Petersburg

Church of Our Savior on Spilled Blood, St. Petersburg

Whenever I try to describe my recent trip to St. Petersburg, Russia, I struggle to find the right words.  It’s an extraordinary place that’s impossible to do justice to with a quick description—even photos can’t quite convey its majesty.  Without question, it is one of the most stunningly beautiful and yes, magical cities I’ve ever been lucky enough to visit.

St. Petersburg feels magical in a way few places do.  It’s filled with what I can only describe as pastel beauty: pale colors dominate its buildings and churches, yet they make a striking impression despite their muted tones.

St. Petersburg is a city you wander around in awe, struck over and over again by the grandeur of its architecture and the pastel colors popping everywhere the eye can see.  You stroll through its churches—the Church of Our Savior On Spilled Blood, St. Isaac’s Cathedral—snapping photo after photo trying to capture just the perfect angle to showcase their beauty, but it can’t really be done; you need to actually be inside to understand the scope and see the beauty of the architecture and pale blue, gold-encrusted walls.

St. Petersburg is a beautiful city with a dark, painful stretch of history—the brutal siege of Leningrad (as it was then known) for several years during World War Two, during which many people starved to death while others endured hunger and war.  That counterpoint was always in my head as I absorbed the physical beauty of the city.  Knowing how much this city and its residents had suffered during those dark days made its resilience all the more impressive.  St. Petersburg’s beauty is definitely not just skin-deep; darker tones under the city’s surface are a constant accompaniment to the pastels above.

The Hermitage, St. Petersburg

And the Hermitage.  The Hermitage!  I loved just about everything I saw and did in St. Petersburg, but nothing can match this museum: a regal building wrapped in a coat of pastel green and gold, perched on a river, filled with palace-like rooms decorated with world-class art.  I could have stayed there forever, or so I felt, and never have taken it all in.  The overwhelming crush of art in famous museums can sometimes feel like overkill—enough with all the beauty, I can’t absorb any more paintings and sculptures—but I never felt that way at the Hermitage.  It felt just right; beauty I could comfortably take in and appreciate as I made my way room by room through the highlights.  It felt very accessible as well as majestic, and may be my new favorite art museum on the planet (sorry, Louvre and National Gallery!)

Inside the Hermitage.

Yes, I fell in love with St. Petersburg.  (Can you tell?) And while I’m keen to explore much more of Russia in the future, I know my next trip to this vast, treasure-filled country will definitely bring me back to St. Petersburg for another dose of pastel-colored magic.

Have you been to St. Petersburg, or is it on your list?  What is the most magical place you’ve ever visited?

Monthly Recap: August/September

Okay, so I’m noticing a bit of a pattern here.  Despite my best intentions, I only seem to get around to writing these “monthly recap” posts every other month.  Well, rather than beat myself up about this, I’m just going to accept and embrace it.

And really, it’s not a bad thing, especially since August and September featured a big, cross-cutting trip to Finland, Estonia, and Russia!  So in a way, it makes sense to just recap both months together (at least that’s how it goes in my head…)

So, here it is…

August/September 2018 Monthly Recap

 

Where I Traveled:  Florida; Finland; Estonia; St. Petersburg, Russia; Washington, DC.

Best Meal:  An easy choice this month—the steak, cheese plate, and chocolate lava cake I had in Tallin at Rataskaevu 16 was mind-blowingly good.  I’d go back again in a second!

Best Cultural Experience:  Without question, the Hermitage. It’s hard to describe just how powerful an experience visiting this museum was, and even calling it a “museum” seems so inadequate.  From the beautiful pastel-green exterior to the gorgeous white and gold staircase to the stunning art tucked inside every majestic room, it’s just a staggering experience.  I’m so glad I finally fulfilled my decades-long dream of visiting Russia, and the legendary Hermitage in particular.

Best Read:  Hope Never Dies, a book club selection, was my favorite read of the past two months.  It’s a thriller in which Joe Biden and Barack Obama team up to fight crime and solve a murder in Uncle Joe’s native Delaware.  Just go with it.  In this political climate, it’s exactly what we need.  I’m currently working my way through The Book Thief; much heavier, but I’m enjoying it as well.

Best of DC:  Honestly, just having some time to relax in the city in September was great, as was hanging out at Eastern Market on a beautiful summer Saturday and eating all the free fruit and cheese samples.  Sometimes, there’s no place like home!

What’s Next:  I just got back from a great trip to California to visit friends (saving that for the October recap!)  The rest of the month I’ll be here, volunteering for as many House and Senate campaigns as possible before Election Day on November 6th.  (Vote, vote, vote!) And of course, I’ll be planning some trips for 2019 (never too early….)

How was your September?  Any fun upcoming trips planned?

My Favorite Things in Finland, Estonia, and St. Petersburg

Happy autumn!  I’m back from my summer adventure to Finland, Estonia, and Russia, and it’s not an exaggeration to say it was one of the best trips of my life.  And also that St. Petersburg may well be my new favorite city in the world…but that’s a subject for another blog post!

Our trek through Scandinavia and Russia, while all too brief, really was magical.  There were so many incredible experiences that, a few weeks later, it’s hard to look back and sort out and remember all of them.  We were on the go a lot and saw quite a bit in just nine days, though I wish we’d had more time and definitely plan to return to Helsinki and St. Petersburg in the future.

In the meantime, I wanted to share a few highlights of the trip—the things that stand out most to me when I look back on my visit.

My Favorite Experiences in Finland, Estonia, and St. Petersburg

  • Finnish saunas. While I was eager to try the famous saunas in Finland mostly as a cultural experience, I wasn’t sure how much I’d really love them (that whole hot-cold-hot thing sounded a bit dicey).  But actually, Finnish saunas turned out to be a highlight of the trip!  Sitting and relaxing in a steaming, hot but not too hot steam room, soaking up the dry heat perfumed with various herbs, and then dousing yourself in a freezing cold shower is a pretty great way to get over jet lag and absorb Scandinavian culture right off the bat.  And I loved the pools (indoor and outdoor, all different temperatures) that accompanied the sauna experience just as much.
  • Helsinki. It may seem strange to put an entire city on this list of highlights.  But the truth is, I really liked Helsinki and was quite bummed we didn’t have more time to spend here.  Our trip only allowed for two half-days in the Finnish capital between our road trip through the gorgeous countryside and our ferry ride over to Tallin.  In that brief time, I became enchanted by Helsinki and its stylish vibe: beautiful shops, cafes, and restaurants that I only got a glimpse of, but really want to come back and explore more of in the future.  Helsinki feels like a chilled-out city made for relaxation and lingering, and that’s often my favorite kind.

  • Tallin’s Old Town. Having lived in Prague for a year, I’m kind of a connoisseur of European old towns.  I’d heard high praise for Tallin’s, and it didn’t disappoint—rows of pastel houses, winding side streets (far too) easy to get lost in, a beautiful central square with a market and ringed by great restaurants and cafes.
  • Dinner at Rataskaevu 16 in Tallin. While the Old Town was great, my very favorite memory of Tallin is definitely dinner at this delightful restaurant.  We’d heard it was the best in Tallin, and after our meal I would definitely not argue.  The cheese board, fillet, and warm molten chocolate cake with ice cream were all outstanding (and very reasonably priced!), and I would go back in a heartbeat to experience it all again.  In fact, I’ve been telling friends that this restaurant alone is enough reason to visit Tallin!

Inside the Hermitage.

  • The Hermitage. I really have no words to describe this place.  For years, I dreamed of seeing Russia’s foremost museum, packed with art and wrapped in a coating of pastel green, sitting on a river…it’s a combination that I knew would be magical.  But I can’t quite do justice to the building, the architecture, and the art we found tucked inside all the beautifully decorated rooms.  I’m actually glad it’s too big to see all of in a single visit, because this is one place I visited that I absolutely know I’ll come back to experience again.  It was simply magical.

Have you been to Finland, Estonia, or St. Petersburg?  What were your favorite experiences?

How’s That Bucket List Coming? An Update on My Travels

A while back, I wrote a post about my (greatly abbreviated) top ten country bucket list.  It was intended to be an exploration of my travel dreams, as well as a way to prioritize the places I most want to see (since I always have more travel dreams than time or money, making a list of my top travel goals makes sense, right?  I’m nothing if not organized.  Seriously, to an insane degree.  It’s rather scary.)

Recently I started thinking about this list and thought it would be fun to check back and see how I’m doing with my list of must-sees: how many have I made a reality, how many are trips-in-progress, and how many remain tantalizing future travel goals?  I love accountability, almost as much as I love to cross things off of lists, so here goes:

Melissa’s (Updated) Bucket List

 

View of a mist-covered mountain outside Nairobi

 

10) East Africa

Done and done (and soon to be done again!) Last year I visited Kenya and Uganda for a work trip, and I’ll be going back soon to explore more of Kenya (details pending).  I can’t wait to revisit this beautiful corner of the world and dig a bit deeper into what it has to offer.

9)  Brazil

Still haven’t been, but it remains high on my list, especially after friends have raved about it so much lately.  I would love to make this a winter (aka their summer) trip one of these years—maybe in combination with Chile, another place in South America I’m longing to see….

8)  Costa Rica

I seriously thought about taking a trip there this spring, but it didn’t quite pan out.  I have looked into doing a yoga retreat in Costa Rica and really want to make that happen one day (two bucket list goals achieved on one trip; I love it!)

7) India

I was literally just talking yesterday with a friend who had spent lots of time in India and loved it.  It remains high on my list, but I want to visit when I can do an extended tour through the country (both north and south, hopefully) and really get to delve into its magic.  This trip may not happen in the foreseeable future, but it will happen!

6) New Zealand

No details yet, but I’m making a determined effort to visit this magical land within the next year (gauntlet thrown down, now I must commit!)  Seriously, few places rank higher on my must-see-asap list than NZ, and I’m very hopeful a 2018 trip is in the cards.  Stay tuned!

5) Australia

Well, of course you can’t mention New Zealand without bringing up Australia, right?  Because they are SO close and both look SO AMAZING, I would really love to do a trip that combines both—if I manage to carve out a month or so in my schedule that would be possible, but otherwise, I’m afraid Oz may have to wait in line behind New Zealand (I guess I should officially bump it down behind NZ on my bucket list, right?)  But I’m determined to make it to Australia in the not-too-distant future as well.

4) Vietnam

SO. CLOSE. A few months ago I was booked to go back to Cambodia for a work trip, and I had added on a few vacation days in Hanoi to check out the city and visit Ha Long Bay. Unfortunately, the plug was pulled on my work trip, so Vietnam was postponed as well…for now. I still hope to make it back to Southeast Asia later this year or early next, though it’s not totally within control due to the work factors. But one thing is certain: when I return to Asia, I will get to Vietnam at last.

View of Soca river in Slovenia.

 

3) Slovenia

Check another one off the list—I finally made my decade-long travel dream come true and visited Slovenia last summer, and ever since I’ve been recommending that everyone drop whatever they’re doing and head over there.  What a beautiful and fascinating country!

2) Bali

Oh, Bali…how you tempt and vex me.  I was determined to finally make this dream trip a reality for my milestone birthday last December.  But, with all the traveling I’d done that year, and the relatively limited vacation time I had to work with, I decided it made more sense to postpone until I had a chance to do it properly, ie spend a few weeks in Indonesia and really get the opportunity to soak up Bali.   After all, a 20-hour plane ride is nothing to scoff at, and if you’re going all that way you need to make your time there worthwhile, right?  I don’t want to give Bali short shrift when I feel it deserves so much more, so I’m holding off until I can do it right (what a dangerous notion that is, really….)  Anyway, I will make Bali happen.  For sure.  One of these days.  Sigh….

`1) Russia/China/Mongolia and the Trans-Siberian Express

Big news here: I’M FINALLY GOING TO RUSSIA!!!

No, not the Trans-Siberian Express (that will happen eventually though!) but St. Petersburg.  My friend and I have booked a cruise through Scandinavia (covering Berlin, Tallin, Stockholm, Helsinki and Copenhagen), with a full two-day stop in St.  Petersburg.  So after two decades of dreaming about it, I’m finally going to Russia in August—just four months away!! Cue massive excitement, guidebook purchases, and earnest efforts to finally make it through Crime and Punishment this time….

 

So, that’s the status of my bucket list. Two countries checked off, three more in progress, and five dreams waiting to be fulfilled in the future….I guess that’s not terrible, right?  Slow and steady wins the race, and even if getting to every corner of the world my heart desires may take longer than I’d like, I have no doubt that in the end, it will be well worth it.

 

Do you have a bucket list? How are you doing at fulfilling your travel dreams?

My Best Travel Moments of 2016

It’s that time of year again!  Time for holiday celebrations, festive lights, lots and lots of hot chocolate (not that I ever need an excuse, really), and of course, end-of-the-year roundup blog posts.

Honestly, when I look back on my travels over the past year, I’m still pretty astounded I got to see and do so much. I had travel goals and dreams at the beginning of the year, but what I actually was able to see and do and experience blew them out of the water.  This was an incredible year for me, and I’m so grateful for every single new place I visited, every new adventure I embarked on, and above all, the people I met around the globe who reaffirmed my hope that, fundamentally, the world is full of good and decent men and women who just want to live the best lives that they can.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

 

This was the year I visited Cambodia for the first time, and was blown away by this majestic country.  It’s the year I made it to East Africa, experiencing a taste of safari in Kenya and learning about the history and contemporary life of Uganda.  It’s the year that finally saw me accomplish my decade-long goal of visiting Slovenia and northern Croatia for the very first time.  I traveled to Portland with my best friend and had a great time in this fun, funky, donut-and-ice cream-laden city.  I visited my family in England and got reacquainted with one of my all-time favorite cities, London.  And oh yes, I made it back to Paris and it was every bit as delightful as I remembered.

What an amazing year.  I’m so thankful I got to experience every moment of it.

View of Soca river…can you believe that water color is real?!

 

As December draws to a close, I thought I’d do a quick roundup of some of my favorite moments/experiences over the past twelve months.  Read on for my favorites around the globe in 2016:

  • Best Massage: Bliss Spa, Phnom Penh, Cambodia. An hour and a half of heavenly pampering for only $30.  Can’t wait to go back!
  • Best Hot Chocolate: Les Deux Magots, Paris. I sneaked in for an hour with a French newspaper and a chocolate chaud after a long day of work meetings, and it remains one of my favorite memories of Paris.
  • Best Sunrise: Across the magical vista of my lodge near Nairobi, Kenya. Watching the sun rise over East Africa at 6 am—and thinking how far I’d come to be able to experience that moment—made the early morning wake-up call totally worthwhile.
  • Best Meal: Paris again—Le Relais D’Entrecote. I’d remembered this fantastique steak-and-frites legend from an earlier visit but couldn’t find it on a map or in my guidebook…then I stumbled across it by pure chance while wandering around the neighborhood.  Fate!  And it was every bit as delicious as I remembered.  That steak is reason enough to visit Paris.
  • Best Body of Water: As beautiful as the Plitvice Lakes in Croatia are, I have to give the edge to the Soca River in Slovenia. This ribbon of turquoise snaking through the beautiful Slovenian countryside is a marvel.  I remember just sitting and staring at it during a break in my busy day-trip from Lake Bled, wishing I could gaze at it forever and never leave.
  • Best Museum: Also in Slovenia—the Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia in Ljubljana is a bit out of the way from the city center, but it’s very impressive and does a great job of telling the powerful, inspiring story of the country’s journey from Yugoslavia to independence to European Union membership over the past 25 years. It’s a must-see if you’re going to be in the capital.
  • Best Bookstore: This is an easy one (even though I got to revisit some of my favorites in London this year). I fell in love with the legendary Powell Books in Portland, Oregon when I visited this fall.  SO many titles I wanted to take home, but I limited myself to three, and I still have two of them sitting on my nightstand that I can’t wait to crack open.  This place is huge, diverse, and heaven for book lovers!
  • Best New City: While I enjoyed Phnom Penh a lot, and found Zagreb really charming, my hands-down favorite new city from the past year is Ljubljana. The capital of Slovenia is a gorgeous mélange of pastels set on a river and filled with beautiful architecture, excellent restaurants, and too many charming cafes to explore during my all-too-brief time there.  I need to go back and revisit this delightful city soon—it made me so happy and I honestly didn’t want to leave!
  • Best New Country: Cambodia wasn’t even on my radar a year ago except in the vaguest way, but when a work trip sent me there for two weeks, I was thrilled to get a chance to check it out. It honestly was one of the most significant trips I’ve ever taken in my life.  Not only is it an incredibly beautiful country with charming cities and impressive ruins to explore (hello, Angkor Wat!), it was filled with some of the kindest, most interesting people I’ve ever met, and I was inspired and humbled by how the country has worked to move forward after the horrors of its not-too-distant past.  Cambodia is vibrant, fascinating, easy to explore even solo, and very affordable.  It’s now one of my top country recommendations for all travelers.  Cambodia, I’m so glad I got to know you a bit in 2016, and I hope to see you again soon.

What were your favorite 2016 travel experiences?  What are your plans for 2017?

Zagreb and Plitvice: Two Different Sides of Croatia

The day before I was to leave Slovenia for Croatia, I was facing a dilemma.  Thanks to scheduling issues, I’d had to book a bus that arrived in Zagreb in the late evening rather than mid-morning, meaning I’d only have a single full day in Croatia.  This was obviously not optimal, as there is so much to see even in the northern region of the country where I’d be based during my visit.  I reached out to the Facebook universe for help with this question:  “If I only have one day in Croatia, should I spend it at the Plitvice Lakes, or just stay put and explore Zagreb?”

The answer from my Croatia-savvy friends was unanimous: Plitvice.

And honestly, I can see why. Plitvice is beautiful, and who doesn’t love a good waterfall, much less a sprawling park filled with them?

Yet, I have to say that I feel my friends did Zagreb a bit of a disservice.  It’s not Budapest or Prague, but I really, really liked it.

Zagreb.

  Zagreb.

 

The Charms of Zagreb

I didn’t have much time to explore Zagreb—just a quick morning and late afternoon/evening following my trip to the Plitvice Lakes—so I’m hardly an expert after just walking around it for a few hours.  Maybe I also benefited from the freedom of low expectations (one friend had told me Zagreb was her least favorite city in the Balkans).  I wasn’t looking for much there.  I just figured I’d see it, check the box and move on.  But I was also curious as to whether Croatia’s capital had more to offer than I’d been led to believe.

And sure enough, it does.

Zagreb struck me as a quintessential Central European city, which is one of my favorite types of places in the world.  As I’ve written before, I have a long-term love affair with Eastern Europe, and every time I step back into that part of the world, I remember what makes it so special.

Zagreb's market.

Zagreb’s market.

 

Zagreb has all the things that Central Europe is famous for: old-world-style architecture, a beautiful town square, trams rolling through the streets, pastels popping everywhere, a fantastic market bulging with fresh fruits and vegetables, and of course, a surfeit of cafes.   Pretty much all the things I love most about the region, in one small, compact, very walkable city which still retained a bit of a small-town feel.

(Sidenote: I also loved how relatively inexpensive Zagreb is.  My luxurious (for me, anyway!) hotel right on the city’s main square cost only 85 euros per night; I was able to enjoy a fancy steak dinner for around 25 euros, and gelato cost about a dollar.  So much good for so little cash!)

 

The Majesty (and Downside) of Plitvice

Of course, as much as I would have loved more time to enjoy Zagreb, I knew my trip to this part of Croatia wouldn’t be complete without seeing the majestic Plitvice Lakes, a sprawling national park which features both crashing waterfalls and glorious turquoise colored lakes as far as the eye can see.  And Plitvice didn’t disappoint.

Except that it did, a little bit.

Don’t get me wrong, Plitvice Lakes and its waterfalls are BEAUTIFUL, and everyone who can should definitely see them.  I can’t find anything to complain about in these views:

croatia-plitvice-one  croatia-plitvice-two

Except that it was crowded and full of tourists snapping selfies (hello, Thailand flashbacks); it was a bit confusing to navigate despite the trails being marked (I somehow wandered onto the path for a longer walk when I only had time for a shorter one, meaning I had to retrace my steps and double back to my starting point); and frankly, I just didn’t plan my time there very well. I was trying to do too much: take a bus two and a half hours down from Zagreb, see the park in 2-3 hours, then take the bus back up to Zagreb and still have an afternoon and evening free to wander the city.  In retrospect, I should have probably planned to stay overnight at Plitvice to be able to devote an entire day to it without racing through it.  I’m still very glad I saw what I did, but being less rushed would have likely led to a less stressful and more fun experience there.

 

The Bottom Line

Both Zagreb and Plitvice are well worth seeing when you’re visiting Croatia.  Just make sure you budget enough time for each and don’t try to do too much in a single day.  I’d say give Zagreb at least one full day (two if you can) and try to stay overnight at Plitvice to have a full day to explore the park.  I really hope that someday I’ll be able to go back and do the same.

Croatia, you haven’t seen the last of me!

Drop Whatever You’re Doing and Go to Slovenia

I’m proud to say that this summer, I finally made a ten-year travel dream come true: I visited Slovenia for the first time!

I know that may sound like a rather odd travel dream.  Most people, if they visit Slovenia at all, tend to tack it onto a larger Europe trip…either when they visit Italy, Croatia, or do a larger sweep through Central Europe and/or the Balkans.  I don’t know too many people other than myself who were fascinated enough by Slovenia to build a trip around it.

But let me tell you…it is SO worth it.

slovenia-julian-alps

Slovenia was the 35th country I’ve visited so far (yay, mini travel milestone!) and I can honestly say it’s one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.  There is so much natural and man-made beauty there, it’s hard to see how one relatively small country can contain it all!

I began my trip in the capital of Ljubljana, and I really wish I’d budgeted more time there (I only had one full day!).  It’s one of the prettiest cities I’ve ever seen!  Architecturally stunning buildings in gorgeous pastels populate the streets, the riverside cafes are inviting at any time of day, and it’s a perfect place to just wander the cobblestoned alleys and get lost for a while.  On the touristy side, I also visited the castle (and walked all the way up—no furnuncular for me!); took a river cruise in the evening, which I highly recommend as a different way to see the city while getting out on the water; and spent an hour in the excellent Museum of Contemporary History of Slovenia–a must to understand more about the recent history of this fascinating country, from its brief 1991 war for independence to its triumphant ascension into the European Union and NATO (yes, I wrote my dissertation on the role of Central European countries in the EU, so I may be a bit of a nerd on this subject, but really, it’s a great museum I think everyone should visit even if it’s a bit out of the way from the city center).

Ljubljana, in all its pastel glory.

Ljubljana, in all its pastel glory.

 

After Ljubljana, it was on to Lake Bled.  I spent about four days here, soaking up the stunning natural beauty of my surroundings, highlighted by my trip by pletna (small boat) to the island in the center of the lake, which has been made famous in countless photos by the church in the middle of it—it’s just as charming as you would imagine it to be!  Other than that, there’s not really too much to do in Lake Bled aside from water sports and hanging out in cafes and restaurants—another reason I wish I’d spent more time in Ljubljana to explore there—but it’s a beautiful place and should definitely be visited on any trip to Slovenia.

Lake Bled island with church in the center.

Lake Bled island with church in the center.

 

Probably my favorite part of the trip was when I booked a day tour to see some of Slovenia’s greatest natural attractions—Mt. Triglav, its highest peak; the Soca river (including whitewater rafting—a first for me and actually a lot of fun!) and a quick, although rain-soaked glimpse of Lake Bohinj (nice, but can’t compete with Lake Bled, in my opinion).  It was a great way to see a lot of the northern part of this small country in a short span of time, and I would recommend doing this type of tour to anyone!

View of Soca river...can you believe that water color is real?!

View of Soca river…can you believe that water color is real?!

 

When posting to my Instagram account, I captioned a photo of the Soca River with these words, “Drop whatever you’re doing and go to Slovenia.”  And so, the title of this blog post…because it really is true.  This country is beautiful, friendly, easy to navigate, has a fascinating history, and should be high on anyone’s European bucket list.  If you’re going to be anywhere nearby, don’t miss the chance to pop into Slovenia for at least a few days….or, you could be like me and build an entire trip around it.  I promise it will be well worth it!

Have you been to Slovenia?  Would you be interested in going?  Which photo is your favorite?

Why You Should Get Out of Your Comfort Zone and Go See The World

This year, I will celebrate a milestone birthday.  As it happens, I’ve also been doing a LOT of traveling this year, with much more planned for the next few months…some of it work related (for which I’m incredibly grateful!) and much of it just for fun.  Maybe it’s the anniversary of my arrival on this planet that’s spurring me on to new  travel adventures (though let’s face it, I never need much prompting), but I feel like this year is a perfect time to visit as many corners of our vast, fascinating world as I can and see all that I can possibly see.  So you could say that getting older is actually motivating me to travel!

However, I know it doesn’t work that way for everyone.  In fact, I’ve been noticing more and more of a trend among friends and family my age or older, and that’s why I decided to write this post.  (It’s going to be a long one, friends, so bear with me and settle in for a while).

The trend I’ve been noticing is that people, especially as they get older, get more and more set in their ways and fixed in a certain lifestyle.  They settle into a comfort zone, and often, they simply don’t want to leave it…even when extraordinary adventure (by which, of course, I mean world travel) beckons them.

But is that really okay?

Dead Sea, Israel

Dead Sea, Israel

 

Many people would probably say it’s normal.  Maybe it is.  But I’m going to suggest that no, it’s not okay.  Not everyone can or will be a daredevil adventurer, trekking around the globe solo without a map, and that’s absolutely fine.  But, I think there’s a difference between that and a person who’s completely unwilling to try anything new, and won’t even consider a vacation anyplace outside of their usual routine because “it’s too much trouble,” “it’s so far,” “I have everything I’ll ever need right here,” etc etc.

Why is this so bad?  And why is it any of my business?  (Honestly, it’s probably not my business, but this is my blog so I’m going to write about it anyway).

Because there is an entire world out there to be seen, explored, and experienced.  And if you refuse to get out of your comfort zone even a little bit, to stretch your mind and broaden your horizons, you’re going to miss it completely.  And believe me when I tell you this is not to anyone’s benefit in the long run.

We all like to be comfortable.  I LOVE to be comfortable.  If you know me at all, you know that I am, essentially, two different people.  There’s the Melissa who loves, even thrives, on routine: my usual Saturday morning yoga class; my usual order at Starbucks; re-reading my favorite books until they fall to pieces.  I love an ordered, predictable universe.  If you only know this side of me, I’m probably the last person you’d ever expect to go out into the world deliberately seeking adventure.

But there’s another side to me too.  I’m also the girl who’s been fascinated by the world I live in ever since I watched the news with my mom and dad as a kid and spent hours poring over my parents’ world atlas and spinning my best friend’s globe around, wondering when I would be able to get to all the mysterious-sounding places I saw on it.  I’m the girl who left my home state to move to Washington, DC as soon as I graduated college, then uprooted myself again to live in Europe for two years.  I’m the girl who is currently at 32 countries and five continents visited and counting (no, it’s not about the numbers, but they’re a useful illustration of how much I love to wander and explore).

Why did I do all of this?  Why do I continue to travel every chance I get, as far and wide as I possibly can?

Croatia

Because seeing the world is worth it.  It really, really is.  We live on an incredibly beautiful planet filled with diverse people and places that are just begging to be explored.  Maybe you love where you live and the life you have there (me too!) but it can only enrich your life to shake up your routine every now and then and go see somewhere new.  So what are you waiting for?

(Note: I fully realize that there are many people who would love to travel more but are unable to due to certain circumstances—lack of money, commitments at home, health issues, small children or elderly parents to take care of, and so on.  This post isn’t aimed at them.  It’s targeted at anyone who thinks it might be nice to travel and has the time and money to do so, but hasn’t quite been able to make the leap out of their usual routine to do so yet.  (It’s also aimed mostly at my fellow Americans, but I think the overall message is applicable to people around the world as well).  Hopefully, it will inspire people to realize that traveling far and wide is possible, valuable, and will yield them unbelievable benefits.  So, if you’re one of these people, read on for my reasons on why it’s worth stepping out of your comfort zone (and how and where to do it!)

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

 

Why People Don’t Leave the Comfort Zone

The truth is, we live in a magical age of travel. It’s never been easier or less expensive to travel overseas.  So, with a whole vast planet to explore and money and freedom to do so, why don’t more people take advantage of the opportunity to get out and see the world?  Here are a few reasons/excuses I’ve heard over the years from family, friends, and acquaintances (and why you shouldn’t listen to them):

  • “I Could Never Endure the Long Plane Ride.” I’m beginning with this because I hear it a lot, and I actually think this deters a lot of people from traveling to faraway places. I’m not going to lie; long-haul flights aren’t fun.  I recently flew 20 hours each way (and back!) to get to Cambodia.  South Africa was twelve hours; Europe is at least seven or eight.  Yes, it’s a long time to be in an airplane, and yes, I really wish scientists would hurry up and perfect some kind of instantaneous method of transport so we can just flip a switch and pop over to faraway lands in seconds.  But regardless, the plane journey doesn’t last forever.  You can pass the time by sleeping (which you’re likely to do at some point anyway), reading, watching movies or binge-watching a new TV show (the entertainment selection on long-haul flights tends to be pretty damn good).  And once you arrive and set foot in your new destination, I promise you all the hours en route will be well worth it.  Would I have passed up the chance to swim in the waters off of Thailand or stand atop Table Mountain in Cape Town because of the long-haul flights involved?  No way!  Don’t let travel logistics deter you.  Once you arrive, you’ll forget all about any discomforts of the flight and be so glad you made the effort.

 

  • “I Only Speak English: What If No One Can Understand Me?” This is another concern I hear a lot. Honestly, out of all the reasons that might be holding you back from overseas travel, this should be the least of your worries.  English is today’s dominant global language, and if you’re going anywhere with a significant tourist industry, I promise you, people will speak at least enough English for you to be able to communicate at hotels, train stations, airports, and probably even restaurants (and if all else fails, just point to a photo on the menu!) True story: several years ago I was at a train station in Paris waiting to buy a ticket when I overheard a conversation between a German passenger at the next booth and the French ticket seller.  The German asked him, “Is it okay if we do this in English?”  “Sure!” replied the Frenchman.  Point being, people all over the world have gone to the trouble to learn our language and are now adept at communicating in it. So instead of using lack of foreign language ability as a reason not to travel abroad, take advantage of the fact that we live in a world where English is so common and widespread!

 

 

  • “The World Outside My Country Is Scary and Dangerous!” This is something I think a lot of people (particularly Americans) have unfortunately internalized: the view that the world outside America’s borders is frightening and best avoided in the name of safety. Honestly, nothing could be more untrue.  Our planet is HUGE, and while there are certain places I wouldn’t recommend traveling to in the near future (Syria, Afghanistan, Yemen), those aren’t places any traveler looking for a first-time trip outside the US would consider.  Much of the world is incredibly safe, and may well be even safer than where you live.  The media does a terrible job of portraying the world to American audiences, mostly because the things that make the news are generally wars and terrorist attacks.  No real effort is made to convey the subtleties and nuances of life in foreign countries: instead, if it bleeds, it leads.  “News,” by definition, tends to highlight the bad.  Meanwhile, we live in an increasingly interconnected world that is making great strides against poverty, disease, and hunger, where life is better for billions of people today than it has ever been.  Despite the presence of a few hot spots of danger, there are dozens of countries you can visit with virtually no risk at all.  Just in case you were curious, according to the 2015 Global Peace Index, the safest countries in the world are Iceland, Denmark, Austria, New Zealand, Switzerland, Finland, Canada, Japan, Australia, the Czech Republic, Portugal, Ireland, Sweden, Belgium, and Slovenia.  The U.S. actually comes in at number 94 on this list (yikes!)  So if it’s safety you’re looking for, you might want to head to Scandinavia!

 

  • “There’s So Much to See in America, There’s No Reason to Go Anywhere Else!” Honestly, this is my least favorite of all the reasons people give for not going overseas…the idea that they should see America first.  Why?  I don’t disagree at all that America is a beautiful country full of interesting places that people should make a point of seeing.  In fact, I have plenty of U.S. travel I need to do because I’ve been so focused on exploring the world outside our borders that I’ve missed a lot of my own country!  But the truth is, this isn’t a valid reason never to go overseas (once, at the very least!)  It’s just another excuse.  You could spend the rest of your life traveling through America without a break and you still wouldn’t see a fraction of all its wonders…so why use that as an artificial barrier to getting out and seeing some of the rest of the world?  Domestic travel and overseas adventures are apples and oranges: both great experiences you should have through the course of your life.  Don’t make the mistake of sacrificing one for the other.  It’s not necessary, and it’ll be a loss to you if you do.

 

 

  • “What if Something Goes Wrong?” I’m going to make this easy for you: something will go wrong. It nearly always does. But that’s okay.  What’s life without a little adventure?  So you miss a bus or the museum you want to visit is closed the day you show up, or you get lost wandering the streets of Prague (been there, done it).  The world isn’t going to end.  If you’re smart and resourceful enough to deal with minor mishaps like this at home, you can do it overseas too (especially since you’ll more than likely be able to find someone who speaks English to help you—see above).  And a little research can go a long way to help too; like, know the bus departure times and museum hours before you show up!

 

Antigua, Guatemala

Antigua, Guatemala

 

What You Gain by Leaving Your Comfort Zone

So, we’ve run through the reasons why you shouldn’t hesitate to get out of your usual routine and go see the world.  But what can you expect to gain from it, exactly?

Well, beginning with the obvious and easy: the world is an incredible place.  There are beautiful beaches, mountains, lakes, rivers, forests, parks and wilderness to explore.  There are man-made wonders, such as the Sistine Chapel, the Pyramids of Egypt, the Taj Majal in India, the Aya Sofia in Istanbul.  There are museums which hold treasures beyond imagining: the British Museum in London; the Uffizi in Florence; the Hermitage in St. Petersburg (this one is still at the top of my own list); the Louvre in Paris.  There is SO. MUCH. TO. SEE.  This is why wanderlust is an addiction: because once you start seeing what the world has to offer, you realize how much more there is to discover, and that you could travel your whole life and never be able to take it all in.  The world is a fascinating place.  That’s reason enough to go see all you can see of it while you’re alive.

But there are other reasons too—and in many ways, at least in my opinion, the other reasons to get out of your comfort zone and explore our planet are the most important.

It’s only when you get out of the comfort zone of your home and your native country that you can truly begin to grasp what other parts of the world are like, what sort of lives people live in other countries, what’s happening across our vast planet and why it matters so much to all of us.  News can be helpful; books are great.  But reading is not the same as seeing.

At least once in everyone’s life, you should travel to a place where English is not the native language, and try your hand at speaking a few words in French or German or Arabic.  At least once in your life, you should visit a place where America is a foreign country and you are a foreigner, to learn how other people see your homeland.  You should meet, talk to, laugh with, get to know people who live lives that are very different from yours, by choice or circumstances or both.  What can you learn from them?  What can we all learn from each other?  The answer is, a lot.  But you’ll never be able to start learning about the world and the people who live in it if you don’t get out and meet them.

And I think this is really, really important for Americans in particular to do.  America is a very large, but very self-contained universe.  Until you step outside it—speaking from my own experience—you don’t realize just how much being American, living in the United States, affects your thinking, your frame of reference, your worldview.  It’s embarrassingly easy, living in America, to forget that the world outside our country even exists. We’re the last superpower on Earth, and however much pride many of us may take in that fact, the truth is I don’t think we pause to really think about it often enough.  America is a juggernaut on the world stage, and that means that decisions made in the corridors of power in our country have a ripple effect on the rest of the world.  From the Czech Republic to Cambodia, I’ve met people who have told me about how American foreign policy has impacted their lives deeply (in both good and bad ways). Our influence stretches across the planet like that of no nation in history, yet millions of Americans don’t own passports and have never been outside of their own country.  This is a very troubling disconnect, in my opinion.  It’s hard to fully understand the impact our choices make on people in other nations around the globe if we don’t get out and meet those people and visit those nations and get to know them firsthand.  I firmly believe, for this reason alone, that overseas travel is something every American who has the means and ability to do should embark on at least once in their lives.  The benefits are immeasurable:  for us, for our understanding of the world, and for the billions of other people who live in it.

So go on…step outside America’s shores and get to know your neighbors!

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

 

So, Where To Go Next?

Well, I’m hoping by this point in my super-long post (if you’re still reading—and if you are, thank you!), I’ve convinced you that getting out of your comfort zone to see the world is well worth it.  And now for the next (and very fun) question: where should you go?

I figured I couldn’t write a 3,000+ word post on exploring the world without offering some suggestions for where to go to do it…so read on below!  All of these places have their own unique charms, but what they have in common is that they’re a bit outside the norm for many American travelers, but they’re accessible and safe, and can be traveled to without much difficulty (even solo–I know, I’ve traveled solo in every one!)  And each one of them can offer you a unique perspective on this dynamic and diverse world we live in (as well as some fantastic vacation memories).

  • Cambodia—Cambodia is a beautiful, diverse country in a fascinating region of the world: it would make a great introduction to Southeast Asia, in my opinion. Since my recent visit, I’ve been recommending it to just about anyone. It has pretty much all you could want in a vacation spot–temples, beaches, cosmopolitan cities, traditional countryside–and in addition to all these attributes, it has a history that will make you pause and reflect and remarkably kind-hearted and welcoming people who will do their utmost to make your time in their country a wonderful experience.
  • South Africa—South Africa is the perfect country to make anyone fall in love with the world. I only got to visit Cape Town and the surrounding wine region on my trip, but there’s so much more to see that I can’t wait to go back!  Beaches, mountains, beautiful rolling vineyards, dynamic and fascinating cities filled with culture: you could spend months here and not see it all.  It’s also a great destination because yes, everyone really will speak English, yet it feels adventurous for an American because you are literally traveling to the other side of the world!  Win-win.
  • Czech Republic—I lived in Prague for a year, and I highly recommend visiting the city and checking out the rest of the Czech Republic while you’re there. When most Americans think of Europe, they often focus first on England, France, and Italy—all great countries that should absolutely be seen.  But the Czech Republic is fascinating too: a beautiful country with a fascinating history dating back centuries that’s still evident today in its architecture, streets, and museums.  Prague makes a great jumping off point for other parts of Central Europe (don’t miss Budapest while you’re so close!), and since in my opinion this is one of the world’s most fascinating regions, you shouldn’t miss it.  The Czech Republic is well-touristed and easy to navigate while still feeling foreign and as though you’re stepping into a different world.  It’s a place I believe everyone should visit.
  • Turkey—When I think of East-meets-West cross-cultural destinations, I would probably think first of Turkey. This majestic country is an impressive place with a dazzling history (you can probably pick up on a theme here, I’m big on traveling to places with historical relevance), a cosmopolitan and easy-to-explore capital in Istanbul where you can see the Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand and Spice Bazaars, and plenty of other places that will make you feel you’ve left your familiar routine of home far behind.  And I didn’t even make it to Cappadocia, with its lunar landscape over which you can ride in a hot air balloon, or the gorgeous aquamarine waters of the coasts where you can take a small boat for leisurely days at sea exploring far-flung Turkish islands.  And yes, despite being located in a rather volatile neighborhood, Turkey is a very safe destination.  I traveled there solo a few years ago and had no safety problems (though being a solo, blond woman did draw some attention, so if you don’t feel like doing this trip alone it might be a good one to take with friends).  But be sure to go, regardless.
  • Iceland—This last entry might seem a bit odd, since Iceland, to me, doesn’t really get one outside the comfort zone as much as the other places on this list will…but that’s just fine. Maybe this is your first trip outside the U.S., or your first solo trip, and you want to start a bit smaller.  If you’re not ready for Turkey or Cambodia yet, Iceland is perfect.  It’s easy to get around (though renting a car would help, but you can still do day-trips if you don’t have one); literally everyone speaks English; its capital of Reykjavik is charming and compact, feeling a little like Europe and a little like its own thing altogether; and the landscapes and nature here are stunning.  Seriously, waterfalls, geysers, glaciers, parks everywhere that pretty much redefined natural beauty for me on my recent trip.  Iceland is a great spot to begin your international travels, but it’s a place that I think should really be on everyone’s bucket list, from travel newbie to experienced vagabonder.  Iceland, quite simply, is the best.  I’m already looking forward to the day I can return.
Wine country, South Africa

Wine country, South Africa

 

Gulfoss waterfall, Iceland

Gulfoss waterfall, Iceland

 

Old Town Square, Prague, Czech Republic

Old Town Square, Prague, Czech Republic

 

Now, Get Out There—The World Is Waiting for You!

In conclusion: yes, you could spend every summer for the rest of your life going back to the same beach house you always rent on Cape Cod or the Jersey Shore.  And you’ll probably have a good time and be quite content.  But sometimes, that’s not enough.  We can only discover new things that will enrich our lives if we’re willing to step out of our box of routine—job, commute, bills, daily drama and worries—and make a conscious effort to go someplace new, try something different, get out there and explore.  Even if you can’t travel to Patagonia next week, you can still take some great steps in this direction: read a new book.  Take a language (or any other kind of) class.  Eat at a different restaurant and sample a new cuisine.  Shake it up. Try something you haven’t done before.

But, if you are fortunate enough to have the means to travel across the globe to seek out a new country, a new perspective, and a new adventure, I can’t recommend it highly enough.  It will change you, transform your life and the way you think about that life and your place in the world.

“Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer,” as the famous saying goes.  The wealth you can gain from travel, from breaking out of your comfort zone and roaming far and wide, is immeasurable.  So don’t hesitate, don’t hold back, don’t make excuses.  Just do it!

Slovenia, Here I Come!

Do you have a dream destination?  A little corner of the globe you’ve been gazing at longingly for years in guidebooks and on maps, fantasizing about the day you’d actually get to experience its magical lure in person?

It should come as no surprise that I have such a place.  Actually, let’s be honest, I have TONS of them (hello New Zealand, Bali, Vietnam, Russia, Australia….).  And I’ve been fortunate enough to visit many of my one-time dream locations already (Buenos Aires, Istanbul, South Africa, Thailand, Europe….).

But my bucket list is endless when it comes to travel and exploring this beautiful planet.  And for years, there’s been one small pocket of Europe I’ve longed to visit and have somehow never made it to.  But this August, that will change.

Hello, Slovenia, I’m finally coming for you! 

(And Croatia and London, I’ll be swinging by you as well….)

Slovenia guidebook photo

Melissa’s Slovenian (and Croatian) Adventure

This Slovenia trip has been a dream of mine for years, and I’m so excited that it’s finally happening.  For roughly a decade, ever since I lived in Central Europe and began exploring the magical cities and charming, history-laden small town that dot its landscape, I’ve wanted to see Slovenia.  I almost went a few times, but something always got in the way (by which I mean, some other destination pulled me in just a bit more strongly).

But Slovenia kept calling to me, and its pull only got stronger as the years went by.  I had originally been intrigued by its charming, café-filled capital of Ljubljana, which looks like heaven for those of us who have a thing for medium-sized Central European cities (I miss that part of the world badly).  And lately, I’ve been more and more drawn in by photos of Lake Bled, which might just be home to the most stunning castle-on-an-island-on-a-lake in the world.  Slovenia seems like a perfect blend of beautiful cities, small town charm, and natural abundance in the form of mountains, lakes, and even beaches.  It looks absolutely perfect.  What’s not to love?

So this year, I decided it was time to finally stop delaying and making excuses, and to jump into Slovenia with both feet and discover all that this beautiful country has to offer.  I booked my plane ticket a few weeks ago and have been on a high ever since!

So what is there to see and do in Slovenia, you might ask?  Plenty!  Here are some of my plans:

  • Ljubljana—I plan to spend a few days here soaking up the architecture, taking in the views of the castle and the famous bridge, and acquainting myself with as many outdoor cafes as I possibly can.
  • Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj—While Lake Bled is legendary, I’ve heard Lake Bohinj is even more of a stunner—and less crowded! So I clearly have to take a few days to explore them both!  I’ll be based in Bled but do a day-trip to Lake Bohinj to see which one I like best.
  • The countryside—I’m looking to find a day tour that will allow me to see a lot of the gorgeous, varied Slovenian countryside in one trip.  I’m hoping this will include some time at Mt. Triglav, Slovenia’s famous peak; the Vrsic pass in the mountains; and perhaps rafting on the Soca river (or at least getting up close to its stunning blue waters!)

But, this trip won’t be only about Slovenia.  Because the country is so compact and so close to Croatia, I just have to make a return visit to one of my favorite countries…but this time, I’ll be exploring a different part of it.  When I visited Croatia back in 2007, I stuck to Dubrovnik and Split, fairly common for first time visitors (and well worth seeing, especially Dubrovnik).  This time I’ll be staying in the north of Croatia, basing myself in the capital city of Zagreb (another charming Central European city, yay!), and then hopping down to the Plitvice Lakes to see the famous waterfalls.

So if this trip has a theme at all, it’s clearly water.  Or nature.  Or both.

Finally, I’ve booked myself a flight into London, one of my favorite cities in the world and my one-time home, where much of my family still lives.  I’ll have three days in London before I fly to Slovenia, so I’m excited to hit a few museums, spend time with my aunts, uncles, and cousins, and eat all the curry.  (Oh, and stock up on that chocolate chip shortbread that only UK Starbucks seem to sell).

I’m so happy that I’m finally going to be able to make my Slovenia dream trip a reality.  It’s still more than two months away, but I’m already feeling the anticipation.  Slovenia, Croatia, and London, here I come!  I couldn’t be more excited to explore new dream destinations while revisiting one of my favorite cities in the world.

Let the summer of Slovenia begin!

Have you visited Slovenia or northern Croatia?  Any suggestions or tips for me?  Do you have a dream destination you have always longed to visit?

 

Why Haven’t I Been to Russia Yet?

Every traveler has it.  That one destination you dream about above all others, that magical locale that pulls you in with some special lure that speaks to you in a way no other place on earth does.  The city or country or continent you can’t rest until you see.

I have one of those too.  And thirty countries after I began my exploration of this vast and fascinating planet, I still haven’t seen it.

It’s a question I ask myself often when I make my travel plans: Why haven’t I been to Russia yet?

Ah, Russia.  Land of Tolstoy and Dostoevsky and Solzhenitsyn.  Home of Red Square and the Kremlin, St. Petersburg’s Hermitage, and the Trans-Siberian Railway’s epic winding cross-country route from Moscow to Vladivostok.  Art, ballet, literature, architecture, history, vodka.  So many reasons to experience this magical country.

And yet…I still haven’t.

Russia and I have a long history of near-misses.  It began nearly two decades ago (eek!) when I was in college.  A friend and I had a chance to take a winter break trip to Russia; my parents agreed and were willing to finance it as a cultural experience (God, I miss being a college student); our plans were all set and then—everything fell apart.  Our trip was cancelled after the tour guide pulled out (understandable, but still heartbreaking for both of us), and my dreams of seeing Russia were scrapped.  But, only temporarily, right?

Several years later, I had another chance.  While living in London during graduate school, a group of fellow students were planning a trip to Moscow.  I was excited to join in on the adventure…then saw the cost.  The brief trip would have totaled more than $1000, not terrible in retrospect perhaps, but far beyond the budget of my student self.  Once again, I had to give up the dream…temporarily, I was sure.

Russia would still happen.  I would find a way!

But, eight years later and here we are.  I’ve been many incredible places, but I haven’t yet fulfilled my ultimate travel goal.

Why haven’t I made a Russia trip happen yet, when I’ve managed to see so many other corners of the globe?  It’s a question that still haunts me.  Sometimes I feel like I shouldn’t go anywhere else until I see Russia.

But…Russia is hard.  At least that’s what I’ve gathered from many who’ve visited there.  It’s intimidating.  It’s expensive (Moscow in particular, which is always at the top of “World’s Most Expensive Cities” lists).  It’s not necessarily a breeze for solo travelers.  The visa process is a pain.  Russian is a difficult language (I know: I took a class, finally, to at least get my feet wet for future travels), and not everyone in Russia will necessarily speak other languages like English to help travelers out (not that they are obliged to, of course, but it does throw up one more hurdle for a non-Russian speaker.  Hey, at least I finally know the Cyrillic alphabet!  That’s something, right?)

So yes, there are plenty of reasons that Russia is a more challenging destination than many others.  And honestly, I think that’s what’s kept me away.  There’s always somewhere easier, less stressful, less imposing that I could visit, and so I do.  But is this okay?

I’m going to throw down the gauntlet right now and tell myself, No.  It’s not.

Yes, Russia is a challenge for many travelers.  Travel there, especially if I opt to go solo, won’t be a cakewalk.  But Russia has been calling to me since my teens.  It’s a place I need to see.  I need to soak in the magnificent artwork of the Hermitage, stroll down Nevsky Prospect, see Lenin’s tomb in Red Square where so much 20th century history unfolded, watch a world-class ballet at the Mariinsky, dip my toes in Lake Baikal, and ride the Trans-Siberian railway from one end of the vast country to the other.  My life as a traveler won’t be complete until I do.  So it’s about time I make it happen. No more excuses.

I have a number of other trips coming up this year and next, so it may take a while to properly plan and execute my journey.  But I’ve waited twenty years; I can wait two more, right?

2018: The Year of the Russian Adventure?  Yes.  I like the sound of that.

Have you been to Russia?  Is there any place like this for you that you’ve always dreamed of seeing?  How did you finally make it happen?