Eastern/Central Europe

A Love Letter to Eastern Europe

Dear Eastern Europe, *

Hello, old friend. I know It’s been a while, but you’ve been on my mind quite a bit lately.

It started when I began thinking ahead to my summer vacation, and made the decision that this was the year I was finally going to fulfill my long-held dream of visiting Slovenia. I spent hours researching and was amazed at just how much there is to do in that tiny country alone. But why am I so surprised? You never fail to amaze, and you are full of so many wonderful secret destinations that I could spend a lifetime exploring you and never run out of things to see and experience.

You know you’ll always hold a special place in my heart for one particular reason: you were the first place I ever lived abroad. My year in Praha taught me so much; not just about the city but about how to survive, and perhaps even thrive, in a totally foreign environment so different from the one I was used to. It was immersion and sometimes a bit of a trial by fire, but we made it through together.

And every now and then, I realize how much I miss you.

I miss your beautiful cobbled streets and old towns that give a glimpse into what life was like centuries ago. I miss your pastel houses glowing in the spring sunlight. I miss the stunning architecture of Old Town Square in Praha and Rynek Glowny in Krakow. I miss the imposing red-domed Parliament building that dominates the Budapest skyline.

I miss your cafes. I miss being able to walk into Kavarna Slavia and use my handful of Czech words to order a horka cokolada, then spend the afternoon sipping it while reading my book and gazing at the Vltava River just outside the window. I miss going to Café Louvre with my students and whiling away hours talking about life, and travel, and anything that struck our fancy (all in the name of English language practice, of course).

I miss weekend road trips to Budapest, seeing the city in fall, winter, and finally spring. I miss Café Gerbaud and its gorgeous fin-de-siecle interior, and sitting inside our outside on the patio with my friends devouring chocolate cake and marveling at how lucky we were to be in this beautiful place together.

I miss living in a place so full of history, both good and bad. I miss walking across Wenceslas Square in the course of my daily commute and contemplating all the earth-shaking events of the twentieth century that had transpired over the cobblestones beneath my feet: the Nazi invasion during World War Two; the arrival of Soviet and Warsaw Pact tanks crushing the Prague Spring rebellion in 1968; and of course, the peaceful transformation of the Velvet Revolution in 1989, when your citizens finally rose up and seized a brighter future for themselves, showing the rest of the world that it can indeed be done.

I miss all these things; everything that makes up your unique essence. There is nowhere else in the world like you.

But never fear, Eastern Europe; we aren’t done yet. Our journey will continue. As I flip through my new guidebook I feel almost overwhelmed by how much of you I have yet to experience and all the places I still want to see. This summer it will be Slovenia and Croatia: Ljubljana, Lake Bled, Zagreb, the Plitvice waterfalls, and whatever else I can fit in. And I will return to see even more in future visits: Tallin’s Old Town, Riga’s art nouveau architecture, the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, Lake Ohrid in Macedonia. And of course, I will finally make it to Russia (though that’s a subject for a different letter altogether).

I know I’ve been off exploring other corners of the planet lately—South Africa, Thailand, Argentina, Israel—and you may have felt a bit neglected by me in recent years. But rest assured, I have not forgotten you. You are under my skin, part of my spirit, and I have no doubt you will be a lifelong obsession for me.

Until we meet again—thank you.

XOXO,

Melissa

*I know that the Czech Republic/Hungary/Poland etc are more properly classified as Central Europe, but I’m using the generic “Eastern” title for this post to encompass the whole region.

Have you been to Eastern Europe? What are your favorite places there? Is there any region of the world that keeps calling you back?

Budapest, Croatia, Eastern/Central Europe, Praha, Slovenia, Travel Musings

Jan

2016

The (Inevitable) Bucket List

Melissa Kaplan1

Sometimes, when I get bored, I play a little game: I ask myself if I could only visit ten more countries ever in my life, which ones would I choose?

Gah! That is a way more difficult decision for me than it probably is for most people. While I’ve been fortunate enough to see a lot of amazing places around the world, I’m by no means finished, and narrowing down my aspirations to just ten countries is downright wrenching. But it does provide some good entertainment and food for thought, as well as help me shine a light on where my travel dreams, and priorities, really lie. I suppose you could call my chosen ten countries an abbreviated version of my bucket list.

In the travel world, the whole concept of the bucket list can be quite controversial. Some people swear by them; others decry them as an artificial construct that reduces travel to nothing but checking items off a list rather than seeking out surprising new places, being spontaneous, and having authentic experiences. Those criticisms are fair enough; that said, I’m a bucket list girl, myself. I can’t help it. I have always been kind of an obsessive orderer of my universe, and I love to have a plan. For me, planning a voyage is half as much fun as going on one!

So yes, I have a bucket list of sorts (which may or may not be written down in my Iphone notes section just so I don’t ever forget the places I want to see). But believe me, it’s a lot longer than ten countries. So, playing along for a few minutes—if I did have to limit myself to this number, which places would make the cut?

Melissa’s (Inevitable and Abbreviated) Bucket List—In Reverse Order, Because That’s More Exciting…

10) East Africa

This is probably a bit of an odd choice for me, because I’m one of those weird travelers who has absolutely no desire to go on a safari. I mean, if the opportunity arose I wouldn’t turn it down, but I’ve never particularly wanted to get into a jeep and stalk wild animals on a dusty road in the middle of nowhere. Not my scene.

However, since I visited South Africa last year, I’ve developed a much deeper interest in Africa and I really want to go back and explore more of the continent—different countries, a different region altogether. I’d be interested in Kenya or Ethiopia, but if I had to pick just one country as per the game, I’d go with Tanzania, since the photos I’ve seen of Zanzibar island look too magical to be real. Someday!

9) Brazil—But not at Carnevale, thanks. Loud partying crowds stress me out and I’m not 21 anymore. But I’m all for discovering the legendary beaches, waterfalls, and fruit juices. And no major time zone change! Hurray!

8) Costa Rica—This one has been on my list for a while. I’ve heard so many wonderful things about it, most of them revolving around nature, animals, jungle and ziplining, all of which sound interesting. But I must admit it’s the beaches that draw me most. And the relative proximity; it’s one of the few places on my list that aren’t halfway across the globe. So I’m saving it for when I want a relatively easy and painless but still amazing and exotic trip.

7) India—Mysterious, complex, loud, overwhelming, frustrating, fascinating, and exotic. So exotic. India doesn’t top my personal bucket list, but it’s solidly in the middle. I want to go when I have at least a few weeks to really explore and do it justice—Rajastan, Jaipur, Mumbai, Goa. A nice long, luxurious train ride through some epic scenery. And of course, the Taj Mahal, and lots and lots of (Indian) food and yoga.

6) New Zealand—I owe my newfound desire to explore New Zealand from top to bottom solely to one person: Young Adventuress. Seriously, until I stumbled on her blog a few months ago, I had zero interest in going to New Zealand (so far away, and how different could it be from Australia anyway?) Well, I am now ashamed of my former profound ignorance about New Zealand, and am rapidly devouring YA’s website posts about Kiwi life, most of which feature so-staggering-they-look-fake snowcapped mountain ranges and big blue pools in the middle of nowhere. I’m a convert. I’m going!

5) Australia—Great Barrier Reef. Enough said. (Except for the Whitsunday Islands. Got to check those out too).

4) Vietnam—Vietnam is another country that’s only recently popped onto my radar and seems determined to stay in the upper tier of my bucket list till I actually make my visit happen (which if all goes as planned, will hopefully be next year). I’ve heard about the charming cities, the affordable luxury, the kind-hearted people and the incredible food. But what really pulls me in and won’t let go is Ha Long Bay. Those giant rocks rising out of the sea, amid a screen of fog that casts everything in the light of mystery and undiscovered beauty. If I see nothing else in Vietnam (and don’t worry, I will), I will absolutely experience that magical spot.

3) Slovenia—Ah, Slovenia. How has this trip not happened yet? I’ve come so close so many times! I’ve traveled through Italy and Croatia, your next-door neighbors. I almost pulled the trigger and booked a weekend trip to Ljubljana while I was living in London, but decided on Krakow at the last minute (not that I regret this, as Krakow is wonderful). But somehow, I’ve still never made it to this beautiful jewel of a land in Central Europe where lakes and mountains and waterfalls and beaches and wine abound, where the photographs are so beautiful they almost hurt my eyes, where there are apparently so many shades of blue in the water that you could spend your entire time there sitting back and counting them all. I’ve decided, as with Vietnam, that next year is the year for Slovenia. No more excuses. This is happening. I’m coming, Slovenia!

2) Bali—A lush, beautiful, mysterious island loaded with gorgeous beaches, magical foliage, and spas. So many spas. I am a craven lover of luxury, so you better believe that if there’s a spa involved, I’m in. That being said, the natural beauty and culture of Bali have already tugged at my heart, and while I’d like to explore even more of Indonesia, Bali is at the top of the list. I don’t care if it’s a cliché by now…if I haven’t been there, it’s new to me. This is one trip that’s got a solid timeframe on it: my next milestone birthday, I’m there. (Not on my actual birthday because that’s too close to a major holiday. But right afterward!)

`1) Russia/China/Mongolia and the Trans-Siberian Express

I know, I know, that’s cheating because it’s technically three countries, but so what? Is there any adventure more legendary, epic, or enticing than hopping on the Trans-Siberian Express and crossing nearly half the world’s land surface on a six-day train ride? I can’t think of one. Russia has been calling to me for years—it’s my “I’m so embarrassed I haven’t been there yet” country—but as much as I want to see Moscow and St. Petersburg, why stop there? Why not just take a train journey across the whole country, stopping off in little villages from European Russia to Siberia and popping into Lake Baikal for a dip? I can’t even write about it any more without making myself hopelessly travel-lusty, so I’ll stop there. For me, the Trans-Siberian Express will always be the ultimate bucket list item—so much so that I’ll be almost sorry to complete it. But not quite.

What’s on your bucket list, if you have one? Share all the where’s and why’s, please!

Asia, Eastern/Central Europe, Slovenia, South America, Travel Musings

Oct

2015

Return Trips

Melissa Kaplan0

When it comes to travel, I’m not a sentimentalist. I don’t generally look backwards, reflecting on the beauty and majesty of places I’ve been to and vowing to go back to see them again. Rather, I am always looking forward—to the next city, the next country, the next adventure.

This trait can obviously be seen as either good or bad, and there are compelling arguments either way. But one thing it means is that when I am enthralled enough by a place I’ve visited to seriously think about returning there, rather than seeking out some new exciting corner of the globe I haven’t made it to yet, it must really be something special.

So, here they are—a list of places I not only loved, but was captivated enough by to want to return to, whether to explore more, to delve deeper, or—in some cases—in hopes of a do-over.

The “I Want to Go Back Because I’m So In Love With It” List

South Africa—I spent nearly a week last year in Cape Town, and I fell in love with the city and its surroundings. And by extension, I fell in love with the rest of South Africa, even though I didn’t get to see it (yet). I absolutely want to go back to Cape Town itself, have more time to wander the streets, explore its neighborhoods further, and make another trip into wine country. I’d also like to see more of the surrounding areas I didn’t get to, such as the Cape of Good Hope. And definitely want to see more of South Africa—I have a deep fondness for it after my time there and I really want to explore further. Maybe on the luxurious Blue Train?
Paris—“There is never any end to Paris,” as Ernest Hemingway said. And there’s never any end to my longing for it either. Paris is a city I just want to go back to and experience over and over—not to see new things, but to rediscover the ones I already love. Café Angelina, Les Deux Magots, wandering through the Latin Quarter and the Left Bank, and just soaking up the magical feeling of being in a city and country I love and getting a rare opportunity to exercise my pitiful French vocabulary…none of it ever gets old. I always, always wish for more time in Paris, and one return trip after another.
Bermuda—I’m one of the luckiest people in the world, because I spent my childhood summers in Bermuda. At least part of them. My parents bought a timeshare there and from the age of 9 well into my 20s, I was in Bermuda almost every year for the last week of July. The backstory: my parents met while working in Bermuda years ago, and they took a trip back when I was young and decided to buy some property so they would have a place to return each year. I spent idyllic childhood days at the St. George’s club, frolicking in the pools, swimming in the beautiful blue ocean and playing on the pink sand beaches that surround them. I loved walking around St. George’s harbor, seeing the old-fashioned stocks in the town square and imagining the day when they were still in use, and taking boat rides out to other parts of the island and the bus into Hamilton, the charming pastel colored capital city, for day trips. Bermuda was my first experience with international travel, aside from a brief trip to England and France with my parents when I was seven (I know, spoiled rotten!), and the beauty, relaxation, and sense of being in a place so different from home was something I looked forward to every year. Maybe it even helped inspire my love of travel! If I have kids of my own one day, I am determined to bring them to Bermuda at least once, to see the magical island where their grandparents met and their mother spent so many happy summer days.

The “I Want to Go Back Because There’s Still So Much Else To See” List

Croatia—Croatia! How I love you. This country could easily have fit on the “so in love with it” list, but I’ve put it here because as much as I loved my first visit and my time in Dubrovnik especially, my main reason for going back is because of all the other parts of the country I still want to see. As I plan my long-anticipated Slovenia trip, I’m also trying to squeeze in a little nearby Croatia exploration, specifically Zagreb and the Plitvice National Park waterfalls. But I’m not stopping there—I also want to visit Hvar, which looks like pretty much the definition of island paradise, and perhaps some of the towns on the borders with Slovenia and Italy. So much more to delve into in such a relatively small country! If you haven’t seen Croatia yet, bump it up to the top of your list.
Italy—I’ve been to Italy twice and seen most of the major cities and the Amalfi Coast, but I’m still not done. I need at least one more trip to see the Cinque Terre seaside villages, Lake Como and Milan, Sardinia and Sicily. And I may need an entire trip to devote just to Tuscany, the food, wine, and glorious panoramic views. Although I spent two days in Florence, I had to move on before I could explore any of the surrounding Tuscan villages, which has me kicking myself retroactively. Next time I go, I’ll be sure to spend time in Siena and San Gimignano, at a bare minimum. And I’m sure I’ll just return with a longer list of places to see on my next visit. I think Italy will be a lifelong recurring travel theme for me….
Argentina—I’ve only been to Buenos Aires (in fact, it’s the only place I’ve been to so far in all of South America—I need to fix that!) and I really enjoyed it. An elegant, historic yet fun city with great food, majestic cafes and lots of Evita memorabilia everywhere—pretty much perfect for me. But I really want to return and see more of this enormous country—Iguaza Falls (I seem to be developing a bit of an obsession with waterfalls lately) and the wine country of Mendoza top my list. I think at least a few weeks’ return trip is in order….
Thailand—I loved my recent trip to Thailand and the places I got to see, especially Phuket. But what excited me most when I left was the knowledge that there was still so much more of this fascinating country to come back and explore! I’m already mentally planning my next trip, which will hopefully include more time in Bangkok (in the modern, rooftop bar section of the city, away from the tourists and temples, though I’m very glad I saw them this time), Chiang Mai in the north, and Koh Samui for a different island experience. I also want to spend some time in Koh Tao, and hopefully learn how to scuba dive there! From what I’ve heard, there’s no place better to do it.

The “I Want to Go Back for a Do-Over” List

Turkey—I wanted to love Istanbul. Oh, how I wanted to love it. And while I saw a lot of amazing things during my trip there—Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar and a luxurious old-world hamaam being among them—the trip itself was marred because, as a single blond woman traveling alone, I felt singled out and targeted for unwanted attention, even harassment, a lot. Most people I met were kind and friendly, but a few bad apples put a pall on my experience. I really want to change that. I want to go back to Turkey and explore different regions—especially some smaller villages along the Mediterranean coastline, and maybe Cappadocia—to see another side of the country and enjoy the beauty and tranquility I didn’t get on my first visit there. Turkey is at the top of my travel re-do list.
Mexico—Technically, I’ve been to Mexico, but does spring break in Cancun during college plus an afternoon hopping off a cruise ship really count? I don’t think so. I want to go somewhere far less touristy, settle in for a week or so, visit Mayan ruins, snorkel, relax on quiet beaches and eat delicious local food. And I want to explore the Pacific coast, as so far I’ve only seen the Yucatan. Mexico is such a vast and fascinating country; I need to return and create a memorable trip that gives me time to relax and get to know it without the touristy hustle-and-bustle. And no more Senor Frog’s!

Are there places you want to go back to, whether because you loved them so much, want to see more, or want a do-over? Share!

Croatia, Eastern/Central Europe, France, Thailand, Travel Musings

Sep

2015

The Land (or Continent) of Chocolate

Melissa Kaplan0

In one of my favorite Simpsons episodes, Homer’s nuclear power plant is bought by a group of German investors. When Homer expresses his concerns regarding candy, they assure him they’re all on the same page because “after all, we come from the land of chocolate!” (Homer then proceeds to have a pretty astounding and delicious fantasy about what such a place might be like. Suffice it to say, it rains chocolate).

While Germany might certainly have a claim, I’ll venture to say that it’s fair to consider all of Europe “The Land of Chocolate.” They get chocolate there. They do it right. They give this amazing food group the respect it deserves.

If there is one aspect of travel I’m pretty close to expert in, it’s seeking out chocolate in foreign lands. So just for fun, here’s list of my best chocolate experiences in Europe:

Prague: Chocolate (especially my beloved hot chocolate, or horka cocolada) is everywhere in Prague. It’s been a few years since I’ve been, but I still highly recommend a few places: Kavarna Slavia (which has an incredible view of the Vltava River, as well as delicious hot chocolate—you can probably skip the food though). Get a window table; you won’t regret it. And Café Louvre serves liquid chocolate in a cup. There’s no one alive who won’t like that, unless they are certifiably insane.

Barcelona: Oh, how I wish I remember the name, but there was a chocolate/cookie shop I explored with unfathomable delight during both of my trips to Barcelona. Honestly, that’s one of the reasons it’s among my favorite cities. (I’m sort of embarrassed to admit that, but not really). And while the Museum of Chocolate didn’t wow me all that much as an educational institution, go there to have one of the greatest cups of hot chocolate of your life in the café. Oh, and did I mention there’s a gift shop? Because there is.

London: When you’re in London, check out Café Nero and sample their Hot Chocolate Milano. It’s about the best “European” hot chocolate you can find in London, since England, as so many will remind me, is not really Europe. Anyway, this drink is divine, and has the distinction of being the one redeeming feature of my seven-hour layover in Dubai airport a while back (they do have Café Nero in other countries, as you can see, but I associate it with London). And England also boasts something that U.S. Starbucks stores should be ashamed of themselves for not carrying: Chocolate. Chip. Shortbread. It’s even better than it sounds, which is basically impossible, so try it. Even if you’re just on a layover in Heathrow, make it happen.

Budapest: My favorite café in Budapest is Café Gerbaud, which has amazing hot chocolate (I’m sure you can sense a theme to this piece), but also delicious and decadent chocolate cake. Splurge on a few euros’ worth of luxury and sit inside this beautiful fin-de-siecle building or outside on the terrace and watch the world go by. (And yes, I feel a bit silly for having just typed fin-de-siecle, but nonetheless).

Paris: I’ve saved the best for last. While there’s undoubtedly amazing chocolate to be found all over the city pretty much anywhere you look (I did not have a pain au chocolat during any of my trips here that was not worth falling on a sword for), the best place of all to experience Parisian chocolate magic is at the legendary Café Angelina. Wait in line (it’s worth it), gaze around at the beautiful building where Audrey Hepburn and Coco Chanel used to frequent, and once you sit down, immediately order the famous Chocolate L’Africain. I don’t really have words to explain how good this chocolate concoction with a side order of homemade whipped cream is—although, and I am not making this up, I once based an entire chapter of a short story around it—but drink it and you will understand, and words will be both inadequate and unnecessary. Ah, hello, so this is what heaven tastes like. I’m in.

Disclaimer: now that I’ve written an article on the best chocolate in Europe, I have to confess: I have never been to Belgium or Switzerland, and I’ve only spent one day in Germany. Eek! How could my chocolate-obsessed self have let this happen? I promise I’ll rectify it one day, and in the meantime, please feel free to share your best chocolate experiences in these countries, or any others!

Budapest, Eastern/Central Europe, France, London, Praha, Travel Musings

Aug

2015

The Indulgences of Budapest

Melissa Kaplan0

One of the downsides of living overseas (yes, there are downsides) is that after a while, any place you live for long enough stops being purely magical and delightful and becomes Where You Live. That’s not necessarily a bad thing; living in another country allows you to dig deeper and get to know a city much more intimately than you could in a brief week-long visit. However, we all know there’s a difference between real life and vacation—many differences, in fact. As much as I enjoyed my time living in Prague, after a while it started to feel a bit routine. Oh, that beautiful castle tourists from around the world throng here to see? That’s just something I walk by on my way to run afternoon errands.
When Prague became my temporary home, it also lost the wondrous sense of the new and unfamiliar. It became the place I lived, worked, bought my groceries. As one might expect, while I had a great time there, it certainly didn’t feel like every day was a vacation.
But that’s okay: I had Budapest for that!
Budapest was a city I had been dying to see before moving to Europe. It was at the tip-top of my lengthy travel list; only a seven-hour train ride from Prague would sweep me into an entirely new country and culture. And Budapest did not disappoint in the least. It quickly became, and remains, one of my favorite cities in the world.
Budapest boasts many attractions: it has the usual range of big ticket sights, architectural gems, museums, and so on. Yet, while I did the usual city walkaround and spent time at landmark tourist spots like Castle Hill and the Chain Bridge, that’s not what I remember most vividly years later. What Budapest brings to mind most is the overwhelming sense of delight and even luxury I found in even its smallest experiences. Budapest is a beautiful city, and just walking around and taking it in visually is a treat; but that’s far from the only treat this magical destination has in store. Whether it’s food, café culture, or soaking in majestic and incredibly relaxing baths, Budapest has you covered. For some affordable relaxation and luxury, you’d be hard pressed to do better.
A few of my favorite indulgent experiences in Budapest:
• The Szechenyi Baths: This is my one must-do recommendation for every traveler to Budapest. The Hungarian tradition of communal outdoor bathing may seem a bit odd at first to people from other countries where it’s not so common, but it’s really a complete delight. After dropping off our clothes and valuables in a locker (still in our bathing suits, don’t worry), my friend and I walked outside and left the chilly October air behind as we stepped into warm, enveloping water that relaxed us completely. We stayed for hours, leaning against the side of the enormous bath, letting our limbs just float as all the stress and tension of travel and daily life was slowly washed away. We talked, we watched the people around us—a varied crowd, including young boys, hefty grandmas, and old chess-playing men (just like in the guidebook photos!)—and took the time to rest and rejuvenate ourselves in this beautiful community setting. And oh yes, on our second visit, we discovered the bath also had a section featuring whirlpools. Hell yes!

• Café Culture: I’m one of those people who plans city visits around trips to specific cafes. In Budapest, it was Café Gerbaud, home of delicious, rich hot chocolate and every kind of indulgent pastry you can imagine. And it’s also in a beautiful, elegant building, bringing to mind the imperial café culture of the Habsburg Empire and making me feel I’d stepped back in time a bit whenever I walked inside. I visited Budapest three times and made it to Café Gerbaud each trip without fail; it was always a highlight of my time there, and a nice familiar place to come back to and re-experience with new friends every visit.

• Food, Glorious Food (and Wine): Czech food—at least when I lived there—was not a highlight of my time in the city. Hungarian food, however, was a different story. The first time I visited Budapest, my friend and I checked into a hostel with a rather sketchy character who tried to simultaneously impress us with his knowledge of the city and ask my friend out. But he did give us one piece of excellent advice: he recommended the Soul Café, down the street from our hostel. The second we walked inside, sat down and looked at our menus, we were transported. Gulyash, Riesling, exquisite desserts—it was all so delicious! We were in dire need of a break from the rather bland Czech cuisine and the stuff we were cooking in our flats from Tesco, and Budapest provided the culinary kick in the pants we needed. Paprika, you were never such a welcome addition.

Have you been to Budapest? What did you like most about it—any of the things on this list? Do you enjoy partaking in small indulgences while you travel?

Budapest, Eastern/Central Europe

Aug

2015

Praha, Land of Dreams

Melissa Kaplan5

I’ll start by acknowledging that yes, I’m being borderline-pretentious and using Praha as the name of my former city, rather than Prague. Because that’s its name in its native country, and that’s what I got used to calling it when I lived there. So Praha it will always be to me. Anyway, it flows much more nicely than the other version, don’t you think?

And for me, in many ways, Praha was indeed a land of dreams. It’s the first place I ever lived overseas, where I made some amazing friends and had a lot of incredible experiences (mostly good, some challenging, almost all memorable) that I still recall fondly nearly a decade later. I haven’t been back since I left, in part because I know that returning would be so strange without the presence of the friends I experienced the city with all those years ago, who shaped my time there so much. But nonetheless, Praha will always hold a special place in my heart.

I went to the Czech Republic to teach English, like so many other young Americans and Brits have done since the fall of the Iron Curtain a quarter of a century ago. And I may have taught a few people a bit about English grammar and conversation (I hope so, anyway!) but I learned far more. I learned how to survive in a foreign land, how to live in a place where I barely spoke the language, how to make friends with people around the world, how to navigate cobblestoned streets, how to order cheese in a Czech supermarket, how to figure out bit by bit what really mattered to me in life. (I admit, I’m still working on that last one). Praha really did change my world, and it gave me far more in return than I could ever have brought over with me.

In honor of all this, I thought one of my first blog posts on a specific place should therefore be about Praha and some of my favorite places and experiences in the city. Here they are, in no particular order:

1) Café life—Europe is famous for cafes and the whole concept of relaxing over cups of hot liquid accompanied by pastries, newspapers, or books, where you can while away hours on end without rushing. Praha excels here. Among my favorite haunts when I lived in there were the cafes, especially Kavarna Slavia, right on the Vltava River which bisects the city, and Café Louvre. My friends and I would gather every Sunday evening at Kavarna Slavia for horka cocolada (hot chocolate) and rehashing our weekends as we geared up for the week of teaching ahead. It’s still one of my favorite memories of traditions we established in the city, a routine that made life in a strange faraway city feel a little more like home.

2) Petrin Hill—in springtime, Praha is at its finest, and Petrin Hill was one of my favorite places to climb up to with friends, sit on the grass and people watch and observe the world go by as the flowers bloomed around us and heralded the arrival of warm weather.

3) Old Town Square—this probably should have come first, as it’s the first magical place that hooked me when I arrived in Praha. By the time I left, I usually avoided it, seeing it as a bit of a

tourist trap (which it unfortunately is—but with good reason). Tourists aside, this is one of the most beautiful public squares in Europe, and you can’t miss it if you’re in the city. The spires of the town hall building, the famous astronomical clock, the pastel-colored restaurants, cafes, and shops lining the cobblestoned central square, with countless streets labeled with red street sign placards in indecipherable Czech lettering branching off in all directions, just begging to be explored. I don’t recommend eating or drinking much here as it will cost you an arm and a leg, but sitting in the center of the square and gawking up at the amalgam of architecture will cost you nothing and will probably be the highlight of your Czech experience. Praha was mercifully spared from destruction or damage in WW2, so unlike many of the other rebuilt cities around Central Europe, here you’re looking at the real, unreconstructed old town of centuries past. Take it in, and be awed.

4) Beer gardens—I hate beer, but I love beer gardens. Rows upon rows of seats and benches in beautiful leafy outdoor settings—my favorite was perched on the edge of the Vltava and offered spectacular views—where you can soak up warm evening weather and hang out with your friends for hours enjoying nature and good conversation. What’s not to love?

5) The Charles Bridge—Touristy as it is, of course this makes the list. It’s beautiful, historic, and features live musicians busking for change as well as artists selling their wares—usually paintings or photographs of Praha, several of which I bought during my time there as gifts for friends and family back home, or just for myself. If you’re lucky enough to come when it’s less crowded, it’s even more magical.

6) Smazeny syr—Fried cheese. Need I say more? Well, I will add that this is considered a vegetarian staple by the Czechs, who don’t really do salads (or at least they didn’t when I lived there), and that this meal is both delicious and artery clogging and should be eaten sparingly. But be sure to try it.

7) The Mucha Museum and Museum of Communism—These were my two favorite museums in the city. Alfons Mucha was a reknowned Czech artist who became famous originally for his art deco work in Paris at the turn of the 20th century, before coming back to Praha to dedicate his life to the idea of an independent Czechoslovakia, which finally materialized in 1918 in the aftermath of WW1. His work from all stages of his career, including his haunting and beautiful paintings depicting the life and struggles of the people in his native land, are on display here, and it’s a fascinating glimpse into his life. As for the Museum of Communism, I’m a history nerd, and this place does a fine job of laying out the story of how Communism came to Czechoslovakia and Prague, before finally being shaken off by the Czech people in the 1989 Velvet Revolution. Both museums were highlights of my time in Praha and are well worth checking out.

8) Vasklatske Namesti—Or as the non-Czech world knows it, Wenceslas Square. This is one of those places that may not strike you as very interesting at first glance if you don’t have some

insight into the history behind it. Today, it’s essentially a big long plaza with a lot of shops lining it—including, when I lived there, a McDonalds and a Sephora. But Vasklatske Namesti has played host to the history not just of Praha, but of Europe itself in the 20th century. This is where the Nazi troops marched in in 1939 when they took the city under their control, and where the Soviet tanks rolled in in 1945 to drive them out. This is the place where students and other Czechs and Slovaks revolted in the brief Prague Spring uprising of 1968 before it was brutally suppressed by the USSR and its Warsaw Pact allies, and twenty-one years later, it’s where the next generation rose up and threw off Communism for good in the peaceful Velvet Revolution during the magical autumn of 1989. Go see it, look around, and contemplate everything that happened in this square over the past hundred years. I don’t think it’s possible to come away unmoved.

Have you been to Praha? What did you think of it? What are some of your favorite places and experiences from your time there?

Eastern/Central Europe, Praha

Aug

2015

Eastern/Central Europe

A Love Letter to Eastern Europe

The (Inevitable) Bucket List

Return Trips

The Land (or Continent) of Chocolate

The Indulgences of Budapest

Praha, Land of Dreams

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