Thailand

A Note to People Who Don’t Travel

As you may recall, 2017 was going to be a year of travel for me, and I started off my blogging year urging others to make it the same for them. All the reasons I gave back then about why I believe travel is so worthwhile still stand, so maybe writing another post on the topic now seems a bit repetitive.

Except that–as you will also know if you’ve read my recent posts–none of my long-anticipated travel plans for 2017 panned out, due to circumstances beyond my control. Instead, 2017 has been my year of staying still.

View of Lake Atitlan, Guatemala

This was definitely not the situation I’d planned or hoped to be in this year, but it has given me lots of time to think. As I’ve been forced into the role of non-traveler for a while, I’ve realized there are certain things to be said for it. Routine can be nice. You have additional time to spend in your own (awesome) city, and hang out with friends and family. You can also save money (I’m typing this atop a brand new desk I just bought myself which could easily have covered the cost of a domestic plane ticket.)

And yet….I miss travel. I miss the excitement of planning trips, the giddy anticipation of new adventures on the horizon. I miss the thrill of being in a new country where I don’t speak the language or know how most things work and having to figure it out (often assisted mightily by the kindness of strangers).

To anyone reading this who isn’t a traveler, or doesn’t feel the need to be, I’m sure you have your reasons. But speaking as one who’s had to walk (or stay put) in your shoes for the past six months or so, I can assure you that there is a lot to be gained by seeing the world.

Here are just a few of the things I’m missing from travel right now:

Plitvice waterfalls, Croatia

Beach in Phuket, Thailand

I miss sitting in a café in Paris, starting off the day with a flaky chocolate croissant or sipping a chocolate chaud, all the while marveling that great writers like Fitzgerald and Hemingway may have sat in the very seat I’m currently occupying nearly a century ago as they worked on their masterpieces.
I miss trying to speak a new language, making an effort to blend into a new country, even when I spectacularly fail.
I miss walking inside cathedrals, mosques, and other religious sites built over the centuries that dazzle the eye and lift the spirit, like Aya Sofia, St. Peter’s, and St. Paul’s. These buildings aren’t just spectacular visual treats or religious touchstones (though they are that); they’re also tributes to the brilliance of mankind and what people can accomplish when they work together and utilize their talents for the glory of something greater than themselves.
I miss wandering through museums that hold beautiful artwork and historical artifacts that teach us more about the world, and about each civilization’s past and ongoing story. The Louvre, the British Museum, the National Gallery, the Vatican Museum, and so many others I’ve been privileged to see over the years still speak to me and call me back for return visits, over and over again.
I miss the feeling of walking on the Serengeti at sunrise, looking around in hopes of spotting giraffes and zebras, while marveling at the peaceful serenity around me. I remember wondering what my grandmother—who was born in Ireland and never traveled beyond the British Isles throughout her long life—would have thought if she had been able to see her daughter’s daughter taking a morning walk on the Kenyan plains, spotting wildlife and reflecting on the majestic beauty of the world.
I miss the natural wonders that can be found around the globe—waterfalls in Croatia; geysers, hot springs, and more waterfalls in Iceland; stunning beaches in Thailand; gorgeous Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. There are so many corners of the world where nature has created beauty well worth traveling for.
I miss meeting people who were born and raised in cultures vastly different from mine, from Cambodia to Uganda to South Africa to the Czech Republic. I miss talking with them, hearing their stories, learning from them, and sharing my own life with them. Hopefully, at the end of the day, these exchanges between individuals from different countries adds bit by bit to a greater understanding of how much we have in common, and how it benefits all of us to seek out knowledge of worlds very different from our own.
I miss gelato and pizza in Italy. Enough said.

Gulfoss waterfall, Iceland

If you haven’t traveled overseas, it may be due to factors beyond your control—money, medical issues, responsibility for children or aging parents. I get it—believe me, after this year I really do get it. But the very fact of how much I’m missing travel right now reminds me of how important it is to me, and I wanted to share a few of the reasons why in hopes that it might give someone out there the inspiration they need to take the first step towards their own adventures exploring the world. There is so much to see, and as I’ve learned this year, no time to waste in seeing it all.

So, let’s all vow to make 2018 our year of travel. I know I certainly am.

Africa, Central America, Croatia, Guatemala, Iceland, Kenya, Thailand, Travel Musings

Oct

2017

My Top Ten Travel Moments of 2015

Melissa Kaplan2

It’s that time of year again! The holidays are flying by, the new year is fast approaching, and “Best of” lists are everywhere.

2015 was a good year for me in terms of travel. I visited two new countries (Thailand and Iceland), as well as a new US city, Seattle. I also got to do some work-related traveling (more to come next year, hopefully!), and spent time with friends and family scattered across the country. I have even bigger plans for next year, but that’s a story for a different blog post (coming soon!)

In the meantime, let me present my “Top Ten Travel Moments of 2015”, in no special order:

Temple Hopping and Massages in Bangkok: This year I made my first-ever visit to Southeast Asia, which means, of course, temples! I was very excited to see Bangkok’s Grand Palace and other historical spots, but when the day finally came, we had masses of tourists and 102 degree weather to contend with. I don’t think I’ve ever drunk so much water in one morning in my life! But there was a saving grace: at Wat Pho, the temples included a massage pavilion, where my friend and I (gratefully) sat down in the cool room and paid about $9 for an excellent foot massage. As magnficent as the temples were, I’d be lying if I said this wasn’t the highlight of the day.

Pike Place Market in Seattle: Oh, how I love markets! I’d been hearing about Pike Place for years, and when I got there in May, it didn’t disappoint. We whiled away several hours looking at the food and flower stalls and trying all the samples of hot cider and cheese that we could squeeze in…and I was happily surprised when the cheese-and-fruit plate I purchased on my plane ride home included the exact same sharp cheddar from the store I’d discovered in my wanderings that day. Delicious!

Gulfoss Waterfall in Iceland: I love waterfalls even more than markets (well, it may depend on how hungry I am at the time), and Gulfoss is without question the most spectacular waterfall I’ve ever experienced. A must-see site if you make it to Iceland (which you absolutely should).

Lunch view in Phuket: I’ve written here about my splurge spa day on the Andaman Coast in Thailand, but honestly, as amazing as the massage and facial treatments were, the view at lunch (and the chance to enjoy it in solitude before other diners showed up) was one of the best moments of my Thailand trip, and of my entire year. I mean, just look at it! Serenity now….

Oddfellows Brunch in Seattle: I enjoyed my trip to Seattle more as a chance to relax, unwind, and experience the vibe of the city rather than a frantic attempt to sightsee. So it probably shouldn’t be surprising that one of my fondest memories of my trip is….brunch! Brunch at Oddfellow’s Café was pretty spectacular…my bacon, egg and cheese biscuit was the best I’ve ever had, the drinks were interesting concoctions, and they even tossed in organic greens to make me feel a bit better about my food choices that day. Winning all around.

The Blue Lagoon, Iceland: Everything you hear about the Blue Lagoon is true. It may be touristy, and it can get crowded (go early in the morning like I did to avoid this), but it is a truly magical place to soak, unwind, and be in the moment. Next time I return to Iceland, it’s the first place I’ll go back to: a once-in-a-lifetime type experience that I can’t wait to repeat.

New York City restaurants: I started a new job this year that has me traveling to New York fairly often. I’ve never been a fan of the city (and full disclosure, that hasn’t changed yet), but I am willing to acknowledge it has some of the best restaurants in the world…I really haven’t had a bad meal there yet. Some of my favorites are an outstanding Thai place a friend took me too, whose name I’ve sadly forgotten, and the legendary Blue Smoke, a Southern/BBQ style restaurant I’ve visited twice and loved both times. Yum!

Reykjavik: I fell in love with this fun, compact, walkable city this year. Reykjavik rocks, plain and simple. Great food, wonderful cafes, fantastic shopping, easy to navigate, and the architecture and vibe call to mind Central European cities where I spent a lot of time when I lived in Europe years ago. I can’t wait to go back.

Cape Cod Beach Time: My aunt and uncle live in Cape Cod, and as a kid my family would go there every summer and every Thanksgiving to visit, so I have lots of wonderful childhood memories playing on the local beach near their home. This year I went back for Thanksgiving for the first time in years, and it was wonderful: seeing family and spending time on the beach again. As much as I love summer, cool falls days filled with sunshine are a great time to visit New England beaches, and the day we went the weather was absolutely perfect; the sky and ocean were the bluest I’ve ever seen them. Traveling to far-flung places is wonderful, but sometimes it’s equally delightful and satisfying to revisit your roots.

Great Falls, Virginia: I figured I’d end this list with something a little closer to home. This fall, I decided to take up hiking as a hobby, and jumped at the chance to join in on a group trek to Great Falls in Virginia. During the two hour hike, I scrambled over rocks, walked through peaceful green forests, took more photos than I can count—and oh yes, saw a spectacular waterfall. You don’t have to travel halfway around the globe for adventure (though naturally, I won’t let that fact stop me from continuing to do so).

Here’s to another great year of travel, discovery, and adventures in 2016!

Have you been to any of these places? What did you think? What were some of your best 2015 travel moments?

Asia, Iceland, Thailand, Travel Musings, US travel

Dec

2015

A Splurge on the Andaman Coast

Melissa Kaplan1

I love luxury. And pampering. I have always been perfectly happy to eschew buying material things—aside from books and occasionally, clothes—in order to spend money on experiences instead. And the best kind of experiences, for me, are those that pamper and relax both body and mind—massages, facials, pedicures. If it falls into the pampering category, count me in.

When I arrived in Thailand a few months ago, I felt like I had finally found a country that understands this side of me. Massages available everywhere, for bargain prices (at least by American standards)! I was getting an hour-long massage treatment every day, for less than the price of lunch back home. I was in heaven.

But I decided that I was going to step outside the affordable luxury box just once during my trip and go in for full-on indulgence. I found a spa package at a nearby hotel, which included an Apricot Body Scrub plus massage. Although I’d already gotten a plethora of massage treatments in Thailand, this sounded too wonderful to resist, so I made an appointment and dedicated my last day in Thailand to treating myself.

It may have been the best day of my trip. I found myself ensconced in luxury all morning, and some of it in ways I wasn’t expecting, which didn’t cost me a penny (or baht) but were ultimately priceless.

The Spa Treatment

I arrived at the spa and immediately stepped into a different world. Don’t misunderstand; my own hotel was lovely and I really enjoyed my stay. But this place was absolutely exquisite. I walked past a stone Buddha statue and climbed steps into what felt like an outdoor garden, except that it was actually the room where my massage was to take place. What a room! Broad, open, and airy, with light streaming in and a magnificent view of the trees outside undulating in the warm Phuket mid-morning breeze. I think I could have moved in here permanently.

The kindly and very skillful masseuse spent the first forty-five minutes or so scrubbing me with, as you can undoubtedly guess, a scrub made of apricot, smoothing out my skin until I smelled like a delightful piece of fruit. Then, I hopped quickly into the shower to wash off the scrub, and climbed back onto the massage table for the rubbing and kneading portion of the treatment. Even after several straight days of massages, I still had plenty of kinks needing to be worked out (what do I do to myself in my sleep?) and the massage did a wonderful job of settling my body into a more relaxed state.

While the scrubbing, kneading, and pummeling was going on, I closed my eyes and listened to the birdsong and the soft sound of the breeze outside, sweeping in through the open layout of the room. The jungle was right next door—or at least a thick layer of trees—and even without seeing it, the peace of my setting began to pervade me. I didn’t want it to end. Ninety minutes wasn’t nearly enough time.

After the Spa

Luckily, my spa day wasn’t over yet. After I climbed down the steps in a daze, I was led to a table where cookies and tea had been artfully laid out for me. I nibbled, sipped, and slowly brought myself back to reality after the morning’s otherworldly indulgence.

After finishing up my snack and thanking the staff, I headed over to the hotel’s nearby restaurant. Which has a patio that overlooks the Andaman Sea, giving me without a doubt the most spectacular view I’ve ever had during a meal:

Sure beats grabbing a sandwich at my desk at work back home!

As luck would have it, I was a bit early for lunchtime, arriving a little before noon, so I had the entire restaurant and its outdoor terrace to myself for quite a while. I had brought a book to read since I’d be dining alone, but I didn’t once crack it open. How could I pass up the chance to gaze endlessly at this view?

My lunch was simple but sublime, and I accompanied it with a lime smoothie that was among the most delicious I’d had in Thailand, land of smoothies and fruit juices. All through the meal, I kept looking around me, smiling without realizing I was doing it, and attempting to snap photos from every angle possible in order to show my friends and family back home the beauty of this place. But no matter how many shots I took, nothing could fully convey the beauty of this spot, overlooking one of the world’s most stunning bodies of water. I think this day alone would have made me a Thailand convert.

The Best Part of All

As I reflect back on that near-perfect last day of my trip, I realize that while the massage and apricot scrub were wonderful indulgences, they actually paled in comparison to what followed. To be able to just sit, eat, drink, and take in such a magnificent view in a place I’d dreamed of visiting for years…what could top that?

As I gazed around in rapture, I kept thinking to myself, “This is what you need to remember.” When life gets crazy and work is exhausting and deadlines are looming back in the real world, I need to remember this place, its otherworldly beauty, and the sense of peace I felt here. I need to remember how lucky I was to have the opportunity to visit such a magical destination. I need to remember that this moment, and moments like it, are what makes all the effort I put into travel worthwhile.

And I will remember it. I’m determined. I will hold on to that view, and that perfect, luxurious day.

Have you ever experienced a magical spot like this? Done a day of pampering while traveling? What types of travel moments mean the most to you?

Asia, Thailand

Nov

2015

My Experiences Bucket List

Melissa Kaplan0

Recently I posted about my top ten bucket list of countries and regions I most want to visit. For me, the whole concept of “bucket list” tends to revolve around travel, because that’s the thing I’m most passionate about and which brings me the greatest degree of happiness.

But of course, travel doesn’t need to be the only type of life goal to find its way onto such a list. And believe it or not, there are other things I want to do with my life in addition to travel! Lately, I’ve been thinking more and more about new types of activities or experiences I’d like to try, believing that doing so will not only be fun and exciting but also open up new worlds and help make me a more well-rounded and interesting person.

I’m a firm believer that we should never stop learning, growing, or seeking new experiences as long as we’re alive. That’s what keeps life from getting stale and routine, and helps us keep evolving into the people we want to be.

But of course, this being me we’re talking about, I can’t completely take travel out of the equation. There are certain things I want to learn or do or discover that I’ve attached to certain places. I mean, you can learn to cook pasta anywhere, but wouldn’t it be more fun in Italy?

So in that spirit, here’s my current bucket list of activities, experiences, and adventures I want to make happen for myself in the future, and where I see each of them taking place.

Melissa’s Bucket List of Global Experiences and Adventures:

Learning to Ski And/Or Snowboard in New Zealand: I’ve never really been a winter sports person (unless you count ice skating), but lately I’ve been inundated by views of New Zealand’s wintry mountains that have stoked my wanderlust to insane levels. And since skiing is something I’ve never yet done but always kind of wanted to try, why not combine a wintertime trip to New Zealand with my first ski lessons? Either Queenstown or Wanaka seem like good candidates for this: if I’m going to try a new activity and likely fall down a lot, might as well do it someplace with amazing scenery!

Learning to Scuba Dive in Koh Tao, Thailand: I’ve loved snorkeling since I was a kid, but scuba diving has always attracted and terrified me in equal measures. The idea of being so far below water with an oxygen tank makes me nervous, but the tales spun by those who’ve tried it (not to mention the underwater photos they’ve shared) have convinced me it’s worth doing. Koh Tao, the scuba diver’s mecca, seems like a perfect place to start. Lots of options for where to learn, plenty of instructors to help me through the beginning stages, and loads of other diving newbies like me to help me get over my nerves (hopefully). And oh yes, it’s in Thailand. What’s not to love?

Yoga on the Beach in India: I’ll be honest, Bali would do for this activity too, but there’s something especially magical about the idea of practicing one of my favorite activities in a place that holds yoga so sacred and contains so much ancient wisdom and expertise on the practice. Yoga on a beach has been a dream of mine for a while (and one thing I didn’t manage to do on my recent trip to Thailand). Could be a job for Goa….

Riding the Trans-Siberian Express: This one is obviously location specific—Russia, Mongolia, and China. And I love that. Riding the Trans-Siberian has been one of my big life goals for at least a decade, basically since I discovered it existed. A week-long train ride through Russia! The chance to explore not just its amazing cities, but its lesser-known, off-the-beaten-path destinations and get a real feel for what life is like there. And I cannot wait to dip into Lake Baikal, which, let’s face it, is about 90 percent of the reason I’m so excited to make this journey. The world’s deepest lake?

Perfecting my French in Provence: It’s a little-known fact about me that one of my secret (well, not anymore) ambitions is to retire to the south of France. By the time I reach retirement age, I’ll have spent most of my life living in cities, which is fine because I love city life. But I think in a few decades, I’ll be ready for a slower pace of life, and a new overseas adventure in my senior years sounds like the perfect way to begin that new chapter. I want to find a small village in Provence where virtually no one speaks English, and work to improve my mediocre French while shopping at outdoor markets every day for fresh bread, cheese, and fruit, whiling away afternoons reading in cafes over chocolate chaud and pastries, and, should I need a city or ocean fix, hopping on a fast train to Paris or the Mediterranean for a quick getaway. Does life get better than that? I don’t think so.

Do you have a bucket list of experiences you want to try? Does it involve travel in some way? Share!

Asia, France, Thailand, Travel Musings

Nov

2015

Thailand Impressions

Melissa Kaplan0

For some reason—probably just laziness—I put off recording my impressions of Thailand. But now that I’ve been back from my trip for a while and have re-entered normal life, I think the time has come. There is definitely much to share, both my thoughts on the country and of my own reactions to it and how it impacted the bigger picture of my life.

Overall impression: Thailand is pretty amazing. Temples, beaches, stunning natural beauty abounds pretty much everywhere. That said, there were some parts I enjoyed more than others, and some that burned themselves into my brain for all different sorts of reasons.

I really thought I was going to die in Bangkok. The first day, I couldn’t believe how dangerous every street crossing seemed to be: endless lanes of cars and motorcycles and tuk-tuks whizzing by with no apparent regard for pedestrian life. I was terrified to cross every street, truly feeling I was taking my life into my hands and wondering if I would ever live to see the beaches I’d come to Thailand for. In the end, I learned to be more aggressive and fearless and simply jump out with others when there was a brief break in car traffic, but it was an unsettling experience for sure.

My main impression of Bangkok: it was hot. Really, really hot. I have never been hotter in my life than in the day we spent tramping through the city’s temples, which should have impressed me much more and instead, sadly, just felt like impediments to my getting inside to air conditioning. I could admire them, but my physical discomfort was so strong that it sapped a lot of the excitement out of what I was seeing. Also, the crowds…at least at the Grand Palace, the first sight we saw, were out of control. Wat Pho temple proved much quieter, which was a welcome relief, as was the air conditioned massage pavilion where I got a foot massage for $9. Sweet.

On to Phuket. This exceeded my expectations in every way. So many people told me I would hate it because it was trashy, touristy, etc. But the truth is, Phuket has a natural beauty that nothing can really diminish. It also helped that our beach, Kata, was gorgeous and largely unpeopled, so we didn’t have to fight the crowds to enjoy it.

Koh Phi Phi, sadly, was a different story. Almost surreally beautiful, but largely dominated (at least the parts we saw) by selfie-stick wielding tourists who seemed not to want to take in the beautiful place they were seeing, but to snag their latest facebook profile picture there. I did my best to ignore them and appreciate how stunning the water and beaches were, but much like the Bangkok heat, my distaste for them seeped into my bones and marred the experience for me a bit. Looking at my photos, I can appreciate Phi Phi’s beauty far more than I was able to while I was actually standing in the middle of it. Oh, irony.

My big adventure of the trip was riding an elephant, which was quite an amazing yet frightening experience. It’s one of those things that sounds cool in theory; then you’re actually seated in a rickety seat a story off the ground on the back of an animal and you realize just how dicey a proposition it really is. Clearly, I was the only one who felt this way; everyone else on our trip seemed to have a wonderful time and not fear death-by-elephant-ride at all, which made me question my own fears…bringing up another subject I’ll detail a bit more below.

On my last day in Phuket, I decided to dedicate myself to pampering. I began with a five-star spa experience—1 ½ hours of apricot body scrub and massage at one of the fanciest hotels on the island. And oh, it was worth it. Not only was the massage incredibly relaxing, but the setting—lying in an open room with the sun-dappled trees and birdsong outside, just feet from the ocean—was divine. Then I went and had lunch at the hotel restaurant, with a view of the ocean that, in the words of one friend, looked like the kind of panorama that would inspire people to change their life plans and remain on vacation forever. I kept looking around at the awesome sea and beach view, grinning from ear to ear, just wanting to take it all in and remember for as long as I could how stunningly beautiful a vista it was. I want to be able to draw on that view of Phuket for the rest of my life whenever I need a pick me up, a reminder of how much beauty there truly is in the world.

It’s my new happy place.

So, those are my big impressions and memories of my Thailand adventure. But I also encountered a few revelations (to be dramatic) about myself, my travel style, and my life. Here they are, summed up briefly:

I realized that, the older I get, the more I feel the impact of external factors on my enjoyment of a place. Crowds, heat, tired aching feet; even long plane rides bother me more than they used to (though I did survive 40 hours roundtrip in economy class). I think I need to accept that I don’t have the same pluck or determination to power through things that I did as a twenty-something hostel stayer, and accommodate my travel plans accordingly. Shorter flights (when possible), nicer hotel rooms, and lots of AC are necessities for me now. And that’s okay.

One thing that struck me—and frankly, bothered me—on this trip was how scared I became by a number of the relatively routine experiences that everyone else seemed to love. I’ve always considered myself a fairly adventurous person, at least in some ways—what with my habit of traveling around the world solo and all that. But riding an elephant terrified me, even if I was able to enjoy it in a perverse way by the end of the ride. I wouldn’t even get near the baby tigers, as everyone else was happily petting them (kids included). Even snorkeling, which I always loved, proved scary when I was dropped off a boat in the middle of deep water with rolling waves I felt were about to suck me under. That day on the boat in Koh Phi Phi was the second time, post-Bangkok traffic, I really thought I could die on this trip—and I realized I was the only one in the group who had these worries. All my traveling companions seemed totally fine. This really unsettled me. I don’t like thinking of myself as a fearful person, especially if those fears could potentially interfere with something I really want to do. I’ve decided that, to counteract the fears that bubbled up on my Thailand trip, I need to make a conscious effort to do something that I’ve always been curious about but which has always scared me. I need to look my fears in the face and conquer them, to regain my self-respect and image of myself as strong and capable. So what’s the answer? Scuba diving! I’ve always been curious about it but the idea of being submerged under water with an oxygen tank makes me deeply uncomfortable. Time to do something about that. The next chance I get, I plan to take a vacation someplace where I can get certified and learn to scuba dive. It should be terrifying yet thrilling at once. Time to conquer my fear and woman up!

My biggest revelation came while lying on a beach in Koh Phi Phi at the end of the day. I was relaxed, happy, feeling great. The day had been full of madding crowds, but the beach was lovely and I’d had time to swim and snorkel and was now lying in a deck chair, eating watermelon and looking out at the beautiful water and shoreline and observing the bubbling activity around me. A pretty perfect Wednesday afternoon. Relaxing on that beach, I realized how fortunate I am to have had the opportunity to be there, to travel halfway around the world to Thailand and experience this stunning place. I had the good luck to have had experiences and privileges that 99 percent of the people in the history of the world cannot even imagine. And I am very, very appreciative of that. But lying there on the beach in Koh Phi Phi, I also realized the importance of balance—not just in the traditional meaning of work and life, but in what we give and what we get. Travel, I realized, is what I get from the world; the opportunity to explore this amazing planet we live on, which is an incredible privilege I know how fortunate I am to have. But in exchange for this, I need to give the world back as much as I can in return. Whether it’s through a job where I get to help people (hopefully) in some small way, or volunteering, or just doing my utmost to be the best person and version of myself I can be, I need to keep striving to contribute something meaningful to the world, and not give up even when the work gets hard and I get discouraged. Travel is a wonderful break from reality, but it needs to be more than that; it can and should be an impetus for us to want to give the best of ourselves to the world. And going forward, that’s just what I intend to do.

Anyway, the moral of this story is—go to Thailand! Revelations and resolves aside, it was a fantastic trip, and I feel I only scratched the surface of this fascinating country. I’m already planning a return visit someday (something I very rarely do!) and hope to hit up some new places, Chiang Mai, Koh Samui, and Koh Tao (scuba diving mecca!) among them. I don’t know when it will happen, but I am already happily anticipating another chance to explore the Land of Smiles, peel back more layers, and experience even more of its wonder and beauty. And if you’re anything like me, I can’t encourage you strongly enough to do the same.

Thailand, Travel Musings

Oct

2015

My Favorite Happy Places

Melissa Kaplan0

It’s a cold, gray, rainy day outside…looks like fall is finally here for real. As I sit and watch the rain come down outside my window, I can’t help but think there are a few other places I’d like to be today. Nothing better for inciting wanderlust than crappy weather!

So, if I had a magic wand or the ability to transport myself instantly around the globe (please, scientists, tell me you’re working hard on this technology), where would I go? What places call out to me the most on cold, rainy days, and bring back my happiest travel memories?

Here are a few of my favorite candidates—my ultimate list of happy places. (No coincidence that almost all of them involve plenty of sunshine).

Melissa’s Happy Places

Bermuda

I spent a week in St. George, Bermuda every summer in as a kid, and I can’t count how many happy, beach-filled memories I have from those days. Soaking up sun by a pool facing out over the ocean; snorkeling in the crystal-clear blue waters; running back and forth between the beach restaurant and our spot on the pink-hued sands all day long; admiring beautiful sunsets that seemed too glorious to be real. And there were also excursions into the pastel-hued capital city of Hamilton for lunch, shopping, and soaking in the essence of this very British tropical paradise in the mid-Atlantic. Take me back right now!

Paris

I don’t think it’s possible to be unhappy in Paris. Some trips have been better than others, but it’s always a magical place. If I had my way, I’d spend today strolling through the Louvre all morning (after a breakfast of chocolate croissants), then head to Angelina’s for the World’s Best Hot Chocolate, followed by an afternoon in the gardens of the Tuilleries, strolling around the 6^tharrondissement to pop into the multitude of cafes Fitzgerald and Hemingway once frequented, and finishing up with a steak and frites dinner at Le Relais De L’Entrecote. Books, art, food, cafes, and chocolate: this city has everything I need to live life to the fullest.

Barcelona

Barcelona is beautiful, lively, sunny, and above all, fun. Fun! Yes, there are museums and famous works of architecture and other such serious travel fodder, but honestly, my best memories of this magical Catalan city are of strolling through La Boqueria market picking out my lunch for the day, relaxing on the Placa Reial under the palm trees, and exploring the tapas offerings in the wonderful restaurants while drinking sangria and cava. It’s a place that offers temptations and delights around every corner, and reaffirms just how enjoyable travel, and life, can really be. And it was sunny each time I visited!

Andaman Coast, Thailand

I visited Thailand for the first time this year, and fell hard for the Andaman Coast. It’s one of the most beautiful corners of the planet I’ve ever seen, with seemingly endless stretches of golden beach, calm blue water, and an overall vibe that’s blissfully relaxed and welcoming. How can you not love a place that offers both $9 massages and an endless variety of fruit smoothies?

Cape Town, South Africa

I’ve only been to Cape Town once, but it was an incredible week of exploring places that still bring back fond memories and make me excited to return. I loved wine tasting in nearby Stellenbosch, and would give just about anything to be in the warm sunshine (when it’s chilly January weather back home) gazing out over a panoramic spread of green vineyards and bright blue sky as far as I can see. Not to mention the beaches, the view from Table Mountain, the great restaurants surrounding the harbor, the charming brightly colored houses of Bo Kap…it goes on and on, and I can’t wait to go back and see even more sometime soon. Cape Town, and South Africa, are one of my newest happy places on this magical planet.

Where are your happy places? Have you been to any of these—if so, what do you think?

France, Spain, Thailand, Travel Musings

Oct

2015

Return Trips

Melissa Kaplan0

When it comes to travel, I’m not a sentimentalist. I don’t generally look backwards, reflecting on the beauty and majesty of places I’ve been to and vowing to go back to see them again. Rather, I am always looking forward—to the next city, the next country, the next adventure.

This trait can obviously be seen as either good or bad, and there are compelling arguments either way. But one thing it means is that when I am enthralled enough by a place I’ve visited to seriously think about returning there, rather than seeking out some new exciting corner of the globe I haven’t made it to yet, it must really be something special.

So, here they are—a list of places I not only loved, but was captivated enough by to want to return to, whether to explore more, to delve deeper, or—in some cases—in hopes of a do-over.

The “I Want to Go Back Because I’m So In Love With It” List

South Africa—I spent nearly a week last year in Cape Town, and I fell in love with the city and its surroundings. And by extension, I fell in love with the rest of South Africa, even though I didn’t get to see it (yet). I absolutely want to go back to Cape Town itself, have more time to wander the streets, explore its neighborhoods further, and make another trip into wine country. I’d also like to see more of the surrounding areas I didn’t get to, such as the Cape of Good Hope. And definitely want to see more of South Africa—I have a deep fondness for it after my time there and I really want to explore further. Maybe on the luxurious Blue Train?
Paris—“There is never any end to Paris,” as Ernest Hemingway said. And there’s never any end to my longing for it either. Paris is a city I just want to go back to and experience over and over—not to see new things, but to rediscover the ones I already love. Café Angelina, Les Deux Magots, wandering through the Latin Quarter and the Left Bank, and just soaking up the magical feeling of being in a city and country I love and getting a rare opportunity to exercise my pitiful French vocabulary…none of it ever gets old. I always, always wish for more time in Paris, and one return trip after another.
Bermuda—I’m one of the luckiest people in the world, because I spent my childhood summers in Bermuda. At least part of them. My parents bought a timeshare there and from the age of 9 well into my 20s, I was in Bermuda almost every year for the last week of July. The backstory: my parents met while working in Bermuda years ago, and they took a trip back when I was young and decided to buy some property so they would have a place to return each year. I spent idyllic childhood days at the St. George’s club, frolicking in the pools, swimming in the beautiful blue ocean and playing on the pink sand beaches that surround them. I loved walking around St. George’s harbor, seeing the old-fashioned stocks in the town square and imagining the day when they were still in use, and taking boat rides out to other parts of the island and the bus into Hamilton, the charming pastel colored capital city, for day trips. Bermuda was my first experience with international travel, aside from a brief trip to England and France with my parents when I was seven (I know, spoiled rotten!), and the beauty, relaxation, and sense of being in a place so different from home was something I looked forward to every year. Maybe it even helped inspire my love of travel! If I have kids of my own one day, I am determined to bring them to Bermuda at least once, to see the magical island where their grandparents met and their mother spent so many happy summer days.

The “I Want to Go Back Because There’s Still So Much Else To See” List

Croatia—Croatia! How I love you. This country could easily have fit on the “so in love with it” list, but I’ve put it here because as much as I loved my first visit and my time in Dubrovnik especially, my main reason for going back is because of all the other parts of the country I still want to see. As I plan my long-anticipated Slovenia trip, I’m also trying to squeeze in a little nearby Croatia exploration, specifically Zagreb and the Plitvice National Park waterfalls. But I’m not stopping there—I also want to visit Hvar, which looks like pretty much the definition of island paradise, and perhaps some of the towns on the borders with Slovenia and Italy. So much more to delve into in such a relatively small country! If you haven’t seen Croatia yet, bump it up to the top of your list.
Italy—I’ve been to Italy twice and seen most of the major cities and the Amalfi Coast, but I’m still not done. I need at least one more trip to see the Cinque Terre seaside villages, Lake Como and Milan, Sardinia and Sicily. And I may need an entire trip to devote just to Tuscany, the food, wine, and glorious panoramic views. Although I spent two days in Florence, I had to move on before I could explore any of the surrounding Tuscan villages, which has me kicking myself retroactively. Next time I go, I’ll be sure to spend time in Siena and San Gimignano, at a bare minimum. And I’m sure I’ll just return with a longer list of places to see on my next visit. I think Italy will be a lifelong recurring travel theme for me….
Argentina—I’ve only been to Buenos Aires (in fact, it’s the only place I’ve been to so far in all of South America—I need to fix that!) and I really enjoyed it. An elegant, historic yet fun city with great food, majestic cafes and lots of Evita memorabilia everywhere—pretty much perfect for me. But I really want to return and see more of this enormous country—Iguaza Falls (I seem to be developing a bit of an obsession with waterfalls lately) and the wine country of Mendoza top my list. I think at least a few weeks’ return trip is in order….
Thailand—I loved my recent trip to Thailand and the places I got to see, especially Phuket. But what excited me most when I left was the knowledge that there was still so much more of this fascinating country to come back and explore! I’m already mentally planning my next trip, which will hopefully include more time in Bangkok (in the modern, rooftop bar section of the city, away from the tourists and temples, though I’m very glad I saw them this time), Chiang Mai in the north, and Koh Samui for a different island experience. I also want to spend some time in Koh Tao, and hopefully learn how to scuba dive there! From what I’ve heard, there’s no place better to do it.

The “I Want to Go Back for a Do-Over” List

Turkey—I wanted to love Istanbul. Oh, how I wanted to love it. And while I saw a lot of amazing things during my trip there—Aya Sofia, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar and a luxurious old-world hamaam being among them—the trip itself was marred because, as a single blond woman traveling alone, I felt singled out and targeted for unwanted attention, even harassment, a lot. Most people I met were kind and friendly, but a few bad apples put a pall on my experience. I really want to change that. I want to go back to Turkey and explore different regions—especially some smaller villages along the Mediterranean coastline, and maybe Cappadocia—to see another side of the country and enjoy the beauty and tranquility I didn’t get on my first visit there. Turkey is at the top of my travel re-do list.
Mexico—Technically, I’ve been to Mexico, but does spring break in Cancun during college plus an afternoon hopping off a cruise ship really count? I don’t think so. I want to go somewhere far less touristy, settle in for a week or so, visit Mayan ruins, snorkel, relax on quiet beaches and eat delicious local food. And I want to explore the Pacific coast, as so far I’ve only seen the Yucatan. Mexico is such a vast and fascinating country; I need to return and create a memorable trip that gives me time to relax and get to know it without the touristy hustle-and-bustle. And no more Senor Frog’s!

Are there places you want to go back to, whether because you loved them so much, want to see more, or want a do-over? Share!

Croatia, Eastern/Central Europe, France, Thailand, Travel Musings

Sep

2015

A Perfect Day in Phuket

Melissa Kaplan0

Yesterday, my friend whom I traveled to Thailand with and I were reminiscing about our adventures there, and it got me to thinking about how much I really loved the country…and specifically, Phuket!
I know, I know…Phuket has a reputation. It’s supposed to be overcrowded/touristy/trashy/insert-negative-cliché-here. But that wasn’t my experience at all. My friend and I spent about five days at a lovely hotel just a few short blocks from the beautiful, very peaceful and uncrowded Kata Beach, and I can honestly say it was one of the best vacation experiences I’ve ever had.
I was about to say “travel experiences,” but that might not be wholly accurate. Bangkok, our first stop in Thailand, was travel…walk around in 102 degree heat and tour temples all day while burning alive kind of travel. (That said, the temples were amazing and once I got back into a place with A/C, I regretted nothing). But Phuket was really more vacation in the traditional sense: beach time. Relaxation. Slow pace, and enough time spent in one location to develop a typical daily routine.
So what was a typical day in Phuket like for us? Read on….

Phuket Daily Rhythm

While we used Phuket as a springboard for a couple of day-trips to other nearby spots (Koh Phi Phi and an elephant sanctuary), we wisely planned a few days to hang out near our hotel and just chill. Our typical day looked something like this:
6:30-7 am—Wake up to a beautiful new day and enjoy the early morning light. And if you know me, this will be pretty shocking as I NEVER rise this early when I don’t have to…I love my sleep. I told my friend initially that as an early riser, she might be on her own for a while in the a.m. while I slowly summoned the desire to get out of bed and go do stuff. But Phuket made me a morning person, albeit only temporarily. It was so beautiful, and the lure of the ocean so strong, that I just wanted to get out there early and explore.
8-9 am—Walk down to Kata Beach, and take in the view while circling the shore a few times.

9-10 am—By now, our favorite breakfast spot, The Andaman Café, is open for business, so we pop in, grab a pastry and a smoothie, and begin our day. I was initially wary about the smoothies as so many people had cautioned against drinking anything with ice in Thailand. But it was HOT, and I figured a reputable, charming café in a big touristy beach town would probably be a safe place to test this out. Luckily, I had no problems and the strawberry smoothies were absolutely delicious and a welcome break from the heat!
10:30 am—3 pm—Beach time. After changing into our suits and grabbing our gear, we headed down to Kata Beach, grabbed a spot and purchased an umbrella for the day, and spent the next few hours swimming in the gorgeous blue-green ocean, lying on the sand reading or just reclining, and making a quick trip up to Andaman Café or somewhere similar for a sandwich to keep us going through lunch.
3-4 pm—Well, given what a stressful day I’ve had so far, time for a massage, wouldn’t you say? I got a massage every day in Phuket (there were half a dozen massage storefronts open on the road to our hotel, all costing around $10 US for an hour-long session). And those masseuses knew what they were doing: the massages were some of the best I’ve ever gotten, even if you had to be prepared for them to work your muscles pretty intensely—these treatments are not for the faint of heart. Perfect for me.
5-6 pm—Did I mention that our hotel had an amazing pool, as well as a Jacuzzi-style bubble pool to hang out in after we finished up with the beach? Well, it did, and this is where we could be found during the pre-dinner hour.
7-8 pm—Head to the local (overly touristy) restaurants to grab some dinner. This, I must admit, is one area where we failed to plan properly on the trip. I had naively assumed that the food would be wonderful anyplace I popped into in Thailand, but after several substandard curries I wished I’d made more of an effort to research good restaurants, and been less lazy about leaving the immediate vicinity to seek out really impressive places. Oh, well, lesson learned for next time!
9-10—Collapse into bed ridiculously early from all the fresh air and sunshine, and wake up the next morning excited to do it all again!

Have you been to Thailand? What were your experiences there like? Did you stay in one place long enough to develop a regular routine?

Thailand

Aug

2015