Monthly Archive: March 2016

Lake Atitlan: A Little Slice of Paradise

Let’s keep it real here: when I first booked my flight to Guatemala to visit friends last month, it was really Lake Atitlan—that beautiful, deep blue, volcano-ringed lake of a million postcards—that I was most excited about seeing.  Sure, there were other parts of the country that interested me (and plenty I didn’t get to see that I’d like to come back to visit in the future) but that magical natural wonder was my main enticement when I hopped on the plane.  It looked so perfect in every photo I saw; every blog and guidebook sang its praises to the skies.  I was certain I was going to love it.

And I’m happy to say it did not disappoint.

Guatemala docks

When I think of Guatemala, I think of Lake Atitlan and the unique group of towns that surround it.  I remember how beautiful the sunsets were, how dramatic the coastline’s silhouette appeared (more lakes need to be ringed by volcanoes in my opinion), and the overall feeling of being in the presence of so much beauty.  It felt like life moved at a slower pace there, like it was a place you could just relax and take in at your leisure.

I love Lake Atitlan so much that I’ve already nearly managed to erase from memory the terrifying boat ride we endured from Santiago to another town across the lake, which was one of the scarier experiences I’ve ever had on the water.  But never mind, we arrived safely and celebrated our arrival on dry land with lunch at an Irish expat bar, so no permanent harm done.

And other than that, my memories of the lake are pretty much perfect: the small towns with the smiling children scampering up to greet us (including one who acted as an impromptu tour guide to help us to the beach); the flowers blooming against the backdrop of dark blue water and sky; watching the clouds drift over the volcanoes in the distance as we bobbed over the water on the small boats that carry locals and tourists alike from town to town.

Guatemala santiago view

And of course, one never-to-be-forgotten highlight was our afternoon at Club Ven Aca in the charming little town of Jaibalito, where we ate lunch, ordered tropical drinks, and swam in a (very cold) infinity pool looking out over the lake’s stunning vista.  (A photo of me in said pool may or may not now be serving as my facebook profile photo.  Okay, fine, it is).

Guatemala club ven aca

There are so many places in the world I love because they’re bustling, exciting, full of art and culture and one-of-a-kind monuments and sights.  Lake Atitlan, on the other hand, is a place I fell in love with simply for its beauty; for the sense that here, life can be lived with an appreciation for all that nature has to offer us, and a desire to soak up every moment without rushing on to the next.  As our world becomes smaller and more connected, and often more hectic and stressful, this can be a rare quality, and it’s definitely one that I appreciate more and more as I move through life.

If I return to Guatemala someday, I’ll definitely hit up some new places I didn’t get to visit this time (Tikal and Semuc Champey are at the top of that list).  But I will absolutely, positively return to Lake Atitlan, explore more, and experience once again the beauty of a place that stole my heart without even trying, but simply by being.

Have you been to Lake Atitlan?  Did you love it too?  What other places in Guatemala did you enjoy?

Dreaming of Slow(er) Travel

A few days ago, I was emailing my best friend about a trip we’re hoping to take together in the fall.  As our conversation continued, it expanded beyond the immediate trip planning details as we began catching up on the latest happenings in one another’s lives.  Soon, I was putting onto paper (or email) something I hadn’t yet written or shared anywhere else: the fact that lately, I’ve been dreaming more and more about a long, slow, unrushed trip to a completely new destination.

I think I am ready for some slow travel.

As I’ve written before, most of my trips in the past, even overseas, have been brief—maybe a week if I’m lucky, or a long weekend if that’s all the vacation time I can muster.  I’ve been in Turkey for four days, Argentina for five, Iceland for three.  I managed to eke out six days in Thailand last year, which by my standards was close to an epic journey.

Phuket view

In the past, I never thought much of this.  I just figured I was using my precious vacation days to get as far as I could as fast as I could.  If I didn’t get to stay long enough to really get to know a place, soak it up, and come away better understanding its nuances and what makes it tick—well, at least I’d seen it and could check it off my bucket list, right?

It wasn’t that I was averse to longer trips; like most people, I’ve just never had both the time and money simultaneously to enable me to take one.  When I was working, I had to be mindful of vacation days (and the pressure of trying to see as much of the world as I could with those weeks every year, which often meant long  plane flights a few times a year in totally different directions).  When I wasn’t working, I was usually either a broke student or looking for a job, so while I might have time on my side for a leisurely exploration of a new corner of the planet, I didn’t have the money or freedom to just take off.  The stars never quite aligned for me to indulge in long-term journeys.

Italy Positano

Lately, however, I’ve been really thinking about my life as a traveler, and what I want to get out of it.  And reading a ton of travel blogs written by serial expats and globe-trotting nomads has impacted me too.  Yes, I live a very different life than these people do; I don’t have the luxury of just taking a six-month leave from my job to go explore a new continent.  And yet…the older I get, the more I see the value in that kind of leisurely exploration.  I want to travel farther, sit myself down in a new corner of the globe, and stay awhile.

So this is my new travel dream.  But how to make it happen?

Truthfully, I’m not 100 percent sure.  I know I have no plans to quit my job, pack a backpack and book a one-way flight to Bangkok anytime soon.  I love my job, I love the city where I live, and I’m not interested in the backpacker circuit anymore.

But I still believe that, if I want something badly enough, I can find a way to make it happen (see moving to DC, living in Prague, studying in London, visiting 30 countries as proof).  When I set my mind to achieving something (especially something travel-related), I have a pretty good track record.

In a perfect world, I’d love to take a two-month trip: one month in Southeast Asia (where I’d explore countries like Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Singapore, Hong Kong, and more of Thailand), and another month split between Australia and New Zealand (Sydney, Queensland, the Great Barrier Reef, Wellington, Queenstown, Wanaka, and other places on the South Island).  I figure these places are all close enough to one another to make a long trip to explore them all at once seem feasible, and Southeast Asia seems like a perfect slow-travel destination (inexpensive, beautiful, fascinating culture, great food, and yoga opportunities apparently abound).

thailand massage cookies  Thailand buddhas

Realistically though, I may have to choose one or the other—a tough proposition, as Southeast Asia, Australia, and New Zealand all sit right at the top of my bucket list!  But in all honesty, even a month and a chance to explore one or the other location at a fairly leisurely pace would be a welcome change.  And one month might well be feasible.  Maybe I can bunch my vacation time together, or take advantage of the next time I begin a new job to carve out some free time in between to go traveling.

In any case, as I told my friend, this idea has taken hold of me and won’t seem to let go.  It’s not something I expect to happen this year, but it’s firmly in place as a medium-term travel goal: maybe 2017, or 2018, or whenever I can figure out a way to combine slow travel with an often busy life.

Because no matter how difficult the logistics may be, I truly believe that the opportunity to slow down and see a country or region at a pace that’s less than rapid-fire will be well worth the effort.  And I think that for me, the ultimate weekend-break type traveler, the time for slow travel has finally arrived.

Have you ever taken a months-long journey?  Do you love slow travel?  Any suggestions or advice for me?

 

 

Why I Love Washington, DC

A few days ago, I did something I almost never do: struck up a conversation with a stranger sitting next to me on a park bench.  As an introvert, this is a rare occurrence for me.  To give you some context, he was reading a copy of Eat, Pray, Love and I’ve been thinking of picking it up before my planned trip to Bali later this year.  (Verdict: after his enthusiastic recommendation, I’ll definitely be adding it to my Amazon cart!)

We began chatting and I soon learned he was in town from Florida and visiting my adopted hometown of Washington, DC for the first time.   I told him that my parents live in Florida and I love it; it’s a beautiful place, especially the Gulf Coast.  His response surprised me.

“I like it much better here,” he said, gesturing out at all the picnickers and office workers enjoying their lunches outside in Farragut Square on the first really nice spring day of the year.  “I mean, look at this.  Florida doesn’t have these kind of outdoor spaces.  This is a great city!”

DC capitol

And you know what?  He’s absolutely right.

I’m a New Englander by birth, but I’ve lived in DC (or technically, just outside of it) and worked in the city on and off for over a decade.  I’ve now been back for six years, and I think it’s pretty clear that this is the place I’m going to stay.  Partly this is because I work in the public policy field; there’s really no other place I could do my job than right here.  But my new park bench friend was right; DC is a fantastic city, and one I don’t think always gets the credit it deserves.

As I’ve begun my journey as a travel blogger, I’ve also broadened the scope of travel blogs I read regularly.  One trend I’ve noticed is that a lot of bloggers write not only about their travels, but also feature the highlights of the place they live: home state, adopted city, expat country.  But I’ve come across very little writing about Washington so far in the travel blog universe.  It mostly features in bloggers’ stories as the place they lived and worked at a boring entry-level job for a few months before they could break free and begin their round-the-world adventure and launch into their “real” travel.

DC sculpture garden fountain

Of course, DC does get a multitude of tourists every year (especially during cherry blossom season, when the metro magically starts running on time during the weekend).  Clearly, lots of people come here and enjoy the city.  But I feel like for most first-timers, a trip to DC means two things: monuments and museums.  Spend a day in the Smithsonion at the Natural History and Air and Space Museums; gawk at the White House and get a picture from outside the gate; do a nighttime tour of the Lincoln, Jefferson, and Vietnam memorials, and you’re all set, right?

These are all great attractions and I completely understand why first-time visitors would have them at the top of their must-see list.  But there is so much more to DC than this!

DC georgetown houses

DC is a city full of some of the smartest, most interesting people I’ve ever been fortunate enough to meet.  People who live here long-term often arrive from other parts of the country and all around the globe, drawn by the type of professional, personal, and cultural opportunities that only exist in the nation’s capital.  This mix of people makes for a really interesting social scene; meet anyone at happy hour and they’re likely to regale you with stories of their time in the Peace Corps or their current projects at a think tank or their job within the U.S. government.  And only in DC can you subscribe to an email newsletter that keeps you up to date on the latest embassy receptions and cultural events.

Kennedy Center

Kennedy Center

 

But as much as DC is heaven for politics and international affairs junkies (like me), it offers so much more that first-time visitors may not realize is here.  Art museums and galleries galore.  Amazing restaurants offering every kind of cuisine you could ever want.  Charming neighborhoods full of shops, cafes, and glorious architecture.  And, as my friend pointed out, beautiful open spaces where people can hang out on a sunny day and just take it all in.

So…all of this praise of my adopted  hometown is by way of saying that I’ve decided to expand my blog’s focus a bit to include more content on DC.  I’ll still write primarily about my travels, but there are also great things right here at home that I’d love to share with readers (and plenty of things I have yet to cross off my own bucket list, so maybe this will give me a bit of inspiration!)

Expect more DC-related blog pieces over the next few weeks and months, as the city launches into springtime, aka Cherry Blossom Festival season, which is probably the best time to visit.  I hope to keep posting about DC and my adventures here as the year goes on.  Because as much as I love to travel and see the world, on a typical weekend, this is where you’ll find me.  And seriously, how lucky am I to be able to say that?

Have you visited DC (or do you live here?) What do you think of the city?  Any recommendations to share?

What I Love About Antigua

When I began planning my trip to Guatemala, my wanderlust-filled mind was consumed with visions of a single destination: Lake Atitlan.  The volcanoes!  The lake!  The flowers ringing the pretty towns lining the shore!  Although there were other places I would have liked to see if I had more time, Lake Atitlan was my primary destination in Guatemala, and definitely the one I was most excited about.

But as we figured out our itinerary for a brief five-day visit, my friends and I decided that a night in Antigua made sense to kick off our time in the country.  It was close to the airport, we could see the highlights in a day, and it would be a good introduction to Guatemala.

Guatemala antigua arch

And I must say, I ended up really, really enjoying Antigua.  It’s a beautiful city that I highly recommend anyone visiting Guatemala spend some time exploring.

So what made Antigua such a great first stop on our Guatemalan adventure?

Guatemala mercado cathedral

My Favorite Things About Antigua

  • The architecture. Antigua is a visually stunning city, filled with colonial-style architecture that is delightful to explore and makes for loads of great photo opportunities.  My personal favorites are the famous Arch, which seems to find its way into everyone’s Antigua photos (and functions as a helpful navigational tool as well; we may have gotten lost several times while wandering Antigua’s cobbled streets!).  I also really loved the town’s cathedral.

 

  • The Parque Central. This lovely green space functions as a gathering spot for locals and tourists alike, with everyone gathering on the beautiful sunny afternoon we visited to sit on park benches, people watch, take in the magnificent buildings, and of course, eat.  It’s a really nice respite in the center of the city.

 

  • The Convento de Capuchinas. This convent was damaged by earthquakes but restored so that now you can walk around and get a sense of what life was like for the nuns who resided there centuries ago, even looking into the remains of the eighteen nun’s rooms built in a circle on the patio.  Bonus: there were loads of gorgeous flowers blooming all around the convent; some of my favorite photos of my trip were snapped here.

 Guatemala convent flowers 2   Guatemala convent flowers

  • Everything’s Yellow! Well, not everything, but when I think about Antigua, I think of yellow: the yellow of the arch, of the buildings sprinkled throughout the streets, of the bright sunlight that bathed the city in a morning or afternoon glow.  It’s a bright, cheerful place, and I think the color affects the vibe and impacted my mood when I was there.

 

  • The Food. Before arriving in Guatemala, we were told not to get too excited about the food, but that Antigua was the best place to get really good international cuisine.  It was true; while Panajachel’s food was better than I had expected, Antigua is Guatemala’s culinary star.  We didn’t have much time to eat there (sadly) but my favorite meal was our dinner at Luna de Miel, a restaurant serving every kind of sweet and savory crepe you can imagine.  I went with the chicken, avocado, and cheese crepe and it was hands-down the best meal of my trip (and began my tradition of eating avocados every day—something I’d like to make a regular habit even now that I’m back home!)

 

Have you been to Antigua?  What did you think of it?  What were your favorite places?